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Book_

Copyrigiit]^!'

'6 H^i

^IsS--.

COIVRIGHT OEFOBir.

WILLIAM WHITMAN COMPANY, Inc.

if.

WOOL AND COTTON

in all forms from

YARN TO FABRIC

William Whitman Company, inc.

Offices

Boston: 78 Chauncy Street New York: 25 Madison Avenue

Chicago : Continental and Commercial Bank Building

Philadelphia: 300 Chestnut Street

Mills

Lawrence, Mass. New Bedford, Mass.

Manomel Mills
Nonquitt Spinning Company

Arlington Mills Acadia Mills

Mononiac Spinning Company

Katama Mills iNasli

South Carolina

Calhoun Mills, Calhoun Falls Mary Louise Mills, Cowpeni

I Mills

III

vJ'

Copyrighc, 1921, by William Whil..ian Company. In

-7 1921

,A608577

m m

WILLIAM WHITMAN COMPANY, Inc.

Following is a Condensed Summary
OF ITS Activities

WOOL TOPS

Wool Combing on Commission

Cleansing by the Naphtha Solvent Process

WORSTED YARNS
MERINO YARNS

In All Counts, Grades and Kinds for All Purposes

COTTON YARNS

Combed and. Carded

Gray, Bleached, Dyed, Mercerized

In All Counts, Grades and Kinds for All Purposes

WORSTED AND MIXED FABRICS
In Every Variety

COTTON FABRICS

In All Forms and for All Purposes

FINE GOODS

In All Cotton and in Cotton and Silk

TIRE FABRICS

tf-

IS «,

The group of mills represented by William Whitman Company,
Inc., by size, modernity and system commands a wide field of Wool
and Cotton manufacture, from the yarn for practically every trade pur-
pose to finished fabrics of actually unlimited variety. It includes
also quite a range of silk manufacture. The system provides against
duplication of product. Each mill has its own special business.

In Lawrence, Massachusetts, are:

The Arlington Mills, producing Wool Tops and Worsted
Fabrics of all kinds.

The Acadia Mills, producing Processed Cotton \arns, Mercer-
ized, Bleached and Dyed.

The Monomac Spinning Company, producing Worsted and
Merino Yarns.

The Katama Mills, producing Tire Fabrics and other heavy
Cotton Fabrics.

In New Bedford, Massachusetts, are:

The Manomet Mills, producing high-grade Combed Cotton

Yarns in the gray, in medium counts.
The Nashawena Mills, producing all Cotton, and Cotton and

Silk Fabrics, both staple and fancy, and making any kind of

design to order.
The Nonquitt Spinning Company, producing high-grade

Combed Cotton Yarns in the gray, in fine counts.

The business now conducted by William Whitman Company, Inc.,
was originally established in 1887, although William Whitman, the
president of the corporation, has served as treasurer or president or
active director of the Arlington Mills since 1867.

During the twenty-six years from 1887-1913, the business was
conducted by various partnerships of which William Whitman was a
member and the guiding spirit. In November, 191.3, the business
was incorporated under the laws of Massachusetts.

[ 10 ]

TABLE OF CONTENTS

WILLIAM WHITMAN COMPANY, INCORPORATED

Past

Condensed Summary of Activities 9

The -'Quality" Mills 10

Officers and Directors 14

Eight Rules Adopted for Guidance in Conducting Business 15

The Rule of Honor 16

The Rule of Service ... 18

The Rule of Quality 19

The Rule of L niformity 20

The Rule of Co-operation .... .20

The Rule of Cleanliness 22

The Rule of Hygiene 2.5

The Rule of Vigilance 24

Climatic Conditions 25

Award for Distinguished War Service 27

ARLINGTON MILLS

Officers and Directors 30

The Arlington Mills 31

Worsted Cloth, Cotton- Warp Worsted Fabrics, Staple and Fancy . . . . 31

Arlington Mills Worsted Yarn Spinning 33

Arlington Weaves 39

Finishing Arlington Fabrics 40

Wool Top 45

Handling Wool on Commission 46

Sorting Wool on Commission .... 47

The Solvent Process for Cleansing Wool 47

Arlington Wool Washing 49

"Conditioning" Wool . 51

List of Arlington Fabrics 53

MONOMAC SPINNING COMPANY

Officers and Directors 58

Monomac Spinning Company Products 59

Monomac Worsted Yarns 59

Monomac Merino \ arns 59

Monomac Single Warp Yarns 64

List of Monomac Yarns 65

[11]

TABLE OF CONTEl^TS — Continued
COTTON YARNS OF THE WHITMAN GROUP OF MILLS

Page

Cotton Yarns of the Whitman Group of Mills 68

Uses of Cotton Yarns 69

Cotton Yarns for Knitting 70

Cotton Yarns for Weaving 71

Underwear Yarns 72

Hosiery Yarns 73

Cotton Yarns for Silk-Filling 73

Cotton Yarns for Webbing and Braiding 74

Cotton Yarns for Electrical Trade 75

Sewing and Shoe Thread for Manufacturers 75

Tire Fabric Yarns 75

Knots 76

Mule-spun Cotton Yarns 78

MANOMET MILLS

Officers and Directors 80

Manomet Mills Product 83

NONQUITT SPINNING COMPANY

Officers and Directors 86

Nonquitt Spinning Company Product 89

ACADIA MILLS

Officers and Directors 95

The Acadia Mills 97

Acadia Mills Processed Cotton Yarns 97

Acadia Mills Mercerizing 98

Acadia Mills Mercerized Cotton Yarns 99

Acadia Mills Bleached Cotton Yarns 101

Acadia Mills Dyed Cotton Yarns 103

Acadia Mills Put-ups 106

GRADES OF COMBED COTTON YARNS

Grades and Classified Lists of Cotton Yarns 107

Manomet Mills, Description of Grades 108

Manomet Mills Tire Yarns 109

Nonquitt Spinning Company, Description of Grades 110

Acadia Mills, Description of Grades in Mercerized Yarns Ill

Acadia Mills, Description of Grades in Bleached Yarns 112

Thread Yarns, Description of Grades 113

[12]

TABLE OF CONTENTS — Continued

^1 — — ■^^-'

GRADES OF COMBED COTTON YARNS— Com imted

Page

Charts Showing the Quality Mills Combed Cotton Yarns 115

Methods of Packing 121

CARDED COTTON YARNS

William Whitman Company Carded Cotton Yarns Department 127

Charts of Carded Cotton Yarns handled by William Wliitman Company as Traders 129

MARY LOUISE MILLS
Mary Louise Mills, Description 132

NASHAWENA MILLS

Officers and Directors 137

Nashawena Mills Woven Fabrics, All Cotton. Silk and Cotton 138

Nashawena Mills Gray Goods 139

Nashawena Mills Fine Goods in the Gray 139

Nashawena Mills Silk and Cotton Fabrics 141

Nashawena Yarns 142

Nashawena Silk 142

Nashawena Weaving 143

Nashawena Staples 151

Nashawena Venetians 151

Nashawena Voiles 151

Nashawena Crepes 153

Nashawena Poplins, Lawns, and Organdies 153

Nashawena Mechanical Fabrics 155

Nashawena Designs 157

List of Nashawena Fabrics 159

KATAMA MILLS

Officers and Directors 165

Katama Mills Product 167

Katama Mills Tire Fabric 167

List of Katama Fabrics 170

CALHOUN MILLS

Officers and Directors 173

Calhoun Mills, Description 174

COTTON STORAGE
Belleville Warehouse Company 175

[13]

n ^

WILLIAM WHITMAN COMPANY, Inc.

rrx r ■. Ml. ^ ■ \ $7,500,000 Preferred

1 he Capital block is ■

( 12,500,000 Lommon

OFFICERS

The Officers of WilHam Whitman Company, Inc.,

are as follows:

President: William Whitman Boston, Mass.

Treasurer: Nelson A. Hallett Boston, Mass.

Assistant Treasurer: Alfred A. Whitman, 25 Madison Avenue,
New York, N. Y.

Vice-President: Arthur T. Bradlee Boston, Mass.

Vice-President: Malcolm D. Whitman. . . .New York, N. Y.

Vice-President : William Whitman, Jr Boston, Mass.

Vice-President: Hendricks H. Whitman Boston, Mass.

Clerk: Frank C. Chamberlain Boston, Mass.

DIRECTORS

Arthur T. Bradlee Boston, Mass.

William W. Coriell New York, N. Y.

Louis H. Fitch Boston, Mass.

Nelson A. Hallett Boston, Mass.

Frank E. Leaycraft New York, N. Y.

George H. Waterman Boston, Mass.

Hendricks H. Whitman Boston, Mass.

Malcolm D. Whitman New York, N. Y.

William Whitman, Jr Boston, Mass.

William Whitman Boston, Mass.

^^^, — (j^

-V, vi — >J ,1)f -

Eight Rules Adopted for

Guidance in
Conducting our Business

THE RULE OF HONOR

The fundamental principles of permanently successful business
are the same now as yesterday, and will remain the same forever.
The undertaking that is based on wrong principles has decay at its
heart, and cannot last. Honor is the one and only true basis on which
an enduring mercantile edifice can be reared.

Character and Honor are synonymous. Character has been de-
scribed as the power to make talent trusted. Our country's vast
volume of business, so immense that it cannot be comprehended in
its entirety, nor conveyed to the mind by statistical exhibits, is con-
ducted in part without written contracts of any kind and in larger
part under contracts that though written may not always be legally
binding. Their validity depends on the man who makes a contract,
rather than on contracts themselves.

Even a legal contract is ever subject to sophistical interpretations
or evasions if any party to it is so minded. The reliable quality of
any form of agreement is not its letter, but its spirit ; and there is no
guaranty of that spirit except the character of the men concerned in
a transaction.

To make any statement that is only literally and not morally true;
to make any agreement or promise without full reason to believe that
it can be made good; to distinguish as between the obligation ex-
pressed in a note and the moral obligation of any maturing debt of
any kind; to undermine the integrity of a national industry by in-
sidious depreciation of quality in product — these are the sure enemies
of reputation and credit. The rule of honor commands faithful per-
formance. It dictates that we shall be always ready to risk financial
loss rather than to lose our self-respect.

Maintenance of so high a standard of mercantile honor is essential
to the credit which binds business intercourse. Our material pros-
perity both as individuals and as a nation is absolutely dependent on
it. Our great achievements of industrial science and our triumphs of
business enterprise could not have developed without conditions that
justified trust; and even if they could have developed, they could not

[16]

in themselves have made the America of today. Honor is the very hfe
of it. It is the background of our present, and the assurance of our
future.

It has been my fortune to know the America of the past. I well
remember the great wool-spinning wheel which stood in my grand-
mother's kitchen and supplied all the yarn for the family home-spun.
I have seen America grow out of that era of pastoral self-help through
the eras of wood, iron and steel, from hand and water power to steam,
gasoline and electricity, and from individual localized industry to
vast production in concentrated mass. Yet in all these changes,
astounding almost beyond belief even by myself who have played
a part in them, I have seen no change in the simple rules that dictate
the conduct of men toward each other. Profit is the practical measure
by which we must estimate success in the methods of business; but
the success of American commerce and industry would be ephemeral
indeed, if it were merely a money success. The true success is in the
integrity of the whole great structure.

The measure of our honor is the pride that we can take in the
structure we have helped to rear. Business demands heart work as
well as head work. Ideals in business are not unpractical. They are
good business. America has become what it is by continually
turning ideals into realities; and duty and self-interest impel us to
continue this work of making a practical tomorrow out of the ideal
of today.

The high ideal before business today is increasing service. The
future of business will be determined by the degree in which it meets
that duty by making itself increasingly useful to all, whether they be
investor or worker, producer or consumer. Good will must be more
than passive in these coming years. It must be the great dominant
energizing factor in all relations.

The mills and the organizations represented in this book have
tried since their inception to practice the rules of co-operation between
themselves and their employees. There has been much to do and there
remains much to learn. Their ideal has not yet been attained. What
may have been accomplished thus far is, indeed, only a part of what
they hope to do as they find themselves able to solve the necessary
questions of practical ways and means. We feel that this spirit of
co-operation between all, and especially between the employers and
employees, can and will be strengthened by time, growth and honest
effort.

2Q.7]^ William Whitman

[17]

THE RULE OF SERVICE

The business principle of the organization looks beyond manufac-
turing and marketing. The user's success in working the product
easily and economically is the thought that governs mill processes.

The technical departments do not consider their work done when
they solve their own problems of manufacture. They study the
problems of the customer, and endeavor to solve them before the
product reaches him.

Through the group there is the purpose to ignore no difficulty,
whatever it may be. That means in plain language, not to pass
troubles on to the customer.

Any new use that develops for yarns, textiles, fabrics or other mill
product immediately becomes a mill study and every resource is
mobilized to make the best material for the purpose.

The three mottoes of the Whitman Company group of mills are :

" Where Quality Counts "
"Tell Us What You Want and We Can Make It''

"Skill Wins Favor''

The executive departments and the offices of the William Whitman
Company in Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Chicago maintain
continual telephone communication with each other and with the mills,
this instantaneous method having long replaced the mails for the or-
ganization's transaction of all except minor and routine business.
The practice produces not only quick action but welds all the estab-
lishments into one well-informed alert whole, accustomed to prompt
decision.

Administrative departments have been formed primarily to increase
service to customers. One of the very effective ones is the Trans-
portation Department which is in daily communication with all
managements of the American railroad system in order to insure the
quickest and most economical deliveries. In cases of interrupted
freight movements over customary routes this department seeks open
gateways and if necessary obtains additional or unusual facilities for
hurrying merchandise either by freight or express. Owing to its
comprehensive information, it often succeeds in diverting freight in
event of untoward conditions after shipment, and has managed many
times to save customers from the loss accruing from idle machinery.

Prepayment of freight charges is another service adopted to save
customers expense both of money and of the time and energy wasted

[18]

in checking freight vouchers and collecting petty overcharges. A
system for promptly crediting customers for goods lost or damaged
in transit saves them similar tedious settlement of claims and also
relieves them of the burden of having perhaps large sums outstanding.

Tracing delayed or astray shipments is attended to in a decisive
way and not by the perfunctory method of simply filing a request
with the carrier. The shipment is found and expedited, and a com-
plete system of shipping marks, car numbers and other records aids
the work.

Another service staff is in the Statistical Department which in
addition to gathering general information about raw material and
textiles, keeps close records of customers" special needs or prefei^ences
in regard to packing, shipping and other details, and of all products
ever made for them.

A Testing Department in the Boston premises of the William
Whitman Company is equipped with the latest devices for textile
research and for testing raw cotton, wool, and silk, or yarns and
fabrics, for quality, grade, counts, twist, elasticity, breaking and
tearing strength, abrasive resistance, construction, color, etc. Among
the instruments are a vertical combination yarn and fabric breaker, a
single strand breaking machine, a skein breaker, a horizontal fabric
tester, and full sets of instruments for determining twist, thickness,
and other fine details. All operations are under the same humidity
control used in the mills and the entire laboratory is sealed in glass
against the outer atmosphere.

THE RULE OF QUALITY

Quality is the one standard of these mills. ''Where Quality Counts"
is not simply a selling phrase. It is a law. It dictates every procedure
from the purchase of raw cotton and wool to the delivery of a finished
product to a customer.

Every mill grade, quality or brand represents an established and
definite standard of quality, from the raw material to the finished
article.

This standard is invariable, no matter how the conditions of the
world's raw material may vary at any time. If a mill should at any
moment find it impossible to get the quality of raw material established
for a given product, that product would be withdrawn for the time.

So long as a Whitman's mills' grade is on the market, it maintains
exactly the standard set for it, and its qualitv is uniform year by year.

[19]

The brand on a mill product is not a mere trade-mark. It is a
pledge.

There is in operation the sharpest distinction between economy
and cheapness. It is recognized that quality costs money, and that
this money-cost is not simply here or there, but must run through all
the processes, beginning with the purchase of the raw material.

Intense application of all possible manufacturing economies is made
to obtain results at the lowest possible cost; but Quality comes first.

Hence there is in these mills the apparent paradox that though
they are notable for economy of operation, they pay more for raw
material, maintain a higher percentage of wasteage and expend more
than most mills on all processes. But the money is spent where it
produces something; and the economies are applied where they
cannot affect quality.

THE RULE OF UNIFORMITY

The value of a wool or cotton product to the weaver, knitter, con-
verter and other user is decided largely by its uniformity. Unequal
quality, even though it touches high quality now and then, is in its
final effect a low quality, for it deranges operation and produces con-
stantly varying results. The Whitman group of mills has developed
all methods to secure absolute Uniformity as well as Quality.

Every department in each mill has its own testing service which
remains in continuous touch with the product while it is in process.
These separate services are under the controlling supervision of the
central laboratory in each mill. As a court of final resort there is
maintained in the Boston offices at No. 78 Chauncy Street, the central
bureau which is believed to be one of the most complete yarn and
textile testing laboratories in the country.

Product is accompanied throughout its entire course by a system
of record and identification whose leading principle is to imbue the
work of the mills with personal responsibility. Being developed to
the point that enables the mill executives to trace any individual put-up
back through every machine, it is a permanent insurance against
defective operation anywhere in the equipments. In addition it
assures accuracy in filling each order.

THE RULE OF CO-OPERATION

The mills are each under separate management and under dis-
tinct ownership, and they are rivals for economy of production and

[20]

excellence of output. They work, however, under one large plan of
scientific operation, and each mill is made the beneficiary of every
technical improvement developed anywhere in the group.

The effect is to make the group one great establishment with the
facilities of many. The mills avoid duplication of product, and
instead, supplement each other at every point. It is not specialization
in any narrow sense. In the regular run of operation each mill con-
centrates on certain manufactures, thus bringing to bear the maximum
degree of expert knowledge and care; but it retains full scope as an
independent establishment.

This point should be remembered in referring to the detailed
description of mill products in this book. Widely varied though
they are, they are the result of one harmonious system and principle —
integrity in selecting raw material and in working it, a scientific
development of quality, and the best obtainable equipment, human
and otherwise.

The group of mills is not only fit to work in. It is fit to live in.
The statement is made here not as a matter of self-approval, but
because it is a business fact of significance to customers.

The quality of any product is inseparable from the conditions under
which it is manufactured. The best machinery is inefficient except
under the best human management. A trained worker's faithful at-
tention is necessary if a thing is to be made as good as it can be made.

Such intelligent attentiveness can neither be attained or expected
from workers whose circumstances make for discontent or whose
tenure of work is insecure. Unsystematic stoppages that cause shifts
or loss of operatives are destructive of efficient production. In this
group of mills the first importance attaches to close co-operation
between the selling, buying and manufacturing departments in order
to so maintain operations that workers shall have permanent employ-
ment, and that all departments of manufacture may profit from trained
operatives whose experience is not wasted by shifts or displacement.
It is easier for a rich mill to buy fine machinery than it is to create a
contented and efficient working force. The figures of these mills
demonstrate that maintenance of steady employment under com-
fortable conditions has effect on both quality and quantity that cannot
be obtained otherwise.

With such an organization, the labor of maintaining uniform stand-
ards is appreciably lessened, for there is a minimum of trouble from
careless work. The executives have leisure and energy to consider
problems, and to experiment for improvements.

[21]

THE RULE OF CLEANLINESS

Tlie time has gone by when dirt was considered a normal element
of industry, and cleanliness only an unbusinesslike fad designed
simply to please the eye. Because dirt is expensive and cleanliness
is good business, the Whitman group of mills are kept permanently
white inside with fresh paint and enamel ; every possible form of dust
is removed by blower installations; cleaners with motor-driven
scrubbing machines, chemicals and other appliances work as con-
stantly as does the force at the production end; and instead of
trampled earth and coal-dust, gardens and lawns surround the
buildings.

It is true that the expense of cleanliness and paint is heavy; but
every modern industrial improvement costs money. An advantage of
brightness that cannot be measured in dollars, is its result on product.
In an industrv that deals with the thinnest, most attenuated material,
ample light is a decided factor in quality. Therefore, the Whitman
group of mills considers natural light a raw material almost equal
in importance to its cotton, wool and silks. Its value runs through
every process. Every place in the mills has direct daylight, so that
the most minute defects are visible.

The direct effect of cleanliness on product is obvious. No dirty
overhead drives accumulate oil and dust to be dropped on the material
imder manufacture. If raw material, rovings, yarns or fabrics acci-
dentally fall, they fall on a floor where they get soiled as little as if
they lay on a clean table. By keeping machinery clean, the mills
eliminate the trouble caused by spattered oil — a fruitful source of
loss to users, since the spattering from a dirty spindle is invisible in
detail and therefore may spot thousands of yards of material.

This strenuous system of cleanliness was considered extravagant
when it was first instituted. But the mills have so profited from it
that they are not only maintaining it, but continually seeking to
accentuate it. One notable effect of it. is the effect on the workers.
The past years have demonstrated that the old proverb "" Like master,
like men"may be paraphrased into "Like mill, like men." Sloven-
liness has practically disappeared from every mill in the group.

To customers this means not only that they get a good product.
It means that they have to pay only for effective work. They benefit
in dollars from the fact that there is little waste in cotton and worsted
varn manufacture due to defects: that as the raw material passes
through the mills it becomes progressively cleaner instead of gathering

[22]

new dirt : that the finishing departments do not have to wash or scour
fabrics nearly as much as if the mills were less punctilious about
cleanliness.

If a mill is dirty, mill dirt is part of what you buy. You have to
pay for it. Mill cleanliness, on the other hand, is a dividend shared
by you.

THE RULE OF HYGIENE

While the attitude of the Whitman group of mills toward welfare
of workers has been dictated primarily by business reasons, it has
proved itself to be of eminent industrial soundness. Had they
achieved nothing else, it might still be considered that they had made
an important contribution to American industrial science by proving
the fallacy of the old contention that workers are irresponsive to the
employer's good efforts.

A suggestion to cut down expenditures for hygiene and comfort
would be considered by the managements of these mills as absurd as
a proposal to cease buying new machinery. As already said, sanita-
tion and brightness make for . satisfactory operation and enhanced
value of product. Massachusetts State officials have reported that
these mills provide as healthful conditions as the public schools. As
a matter of actual statistics, the establishments have nearly double
the amount of fresh air required by the State laws for school children.
The space given to the workers is nearly ten times that demanded by
law for schools.

The air is purified and kept in constant circulation. Standard
bubbling fountains are placed everywhere among the machines,
giving all workers convenient access to water that is filtered and cooled
to the temperature recommended by hygienic science. A very prac-
tical benefit is that work is not interrupted by the illnesses that over-
come factory operatives who have access only to crudely iced water.

Each mill has its own emergency hospital with beds, under trained
nurses who have at their command the facilities for aseptic surgery
and for medical relief. These nurses also superintend the general
sanitary condition of the entire establishments.

Besides dressing-rooms there are individual metallic lockers for
each employee. Women and men attendants maintain wash-rooms,
etc. in good condition.

So thoroughly have these matters demonstrated their utility, that
there is lively rivalry between the various managements for improve-
ments. A suggestive point is that men who had spent a great part

[23]

THE RULE OF CLEANLINESS

The time has gone by when dirt was considered a normal element
of industry, and cleanliness only an unbusinesslike fad designed
simply to please the eye. Because dirt is expensive and cleanliness
is good business, the Whitman group of mills are kept permanently
white inside with fresh paint and enamel ; every possible form of dust
is removed by blower installations; cleaners with motor-driven
scrubbing machines, chemicals and other appliances work as con-
stantly as does the force at the production end; and instead of
trampled earth and coal-dust, gardens and lawns surround the
buildings.

It is true that the expense of cleanliness and paint is heavy; but
every modern industrial improvement costs money. An advantage of
brightness that cannot be measured in dollars, is its result on product.
In an industry that deals with the thinnest, most attenuated material,
ample light is a decided factor in quality. Therefore, the Whitman
group of mills considers natural light a raw material almost equal
in importance to its cotton, wool and silks. Its value runs through
every process. Every place in the mills has direct daylight, so that
the most minute defects are visible.

The direct effect of cleanliness on product is obvious. No dirty
overhead drives accumulate oil and dust to be dropped on the material
imder manufacture. If raw material, rovings, yarns or fabrics acci-
dentally fall, they fall on a floor where they get soiled as little as if
they lay on a clean table. By keeping machinery clean, the mills
eliminate the trouble caused by spattered oil — a fruitful source of
loss to users, since the spattering from a dirtv spindle is invisible in
detail and therefore may spot thousands of yards of material.

This strenuous system of cleanliness was considered extravagant
when it was first instituted. But the mills have so profited from it
that they are not only maintaining it, but continually seeking to
accentuate it. One notable effect of it, is the effect on the workers.
The past years have demonstrated that the old proverb '"Like master,
like men "may be paraphrased into "Like mill, like men." Sloven-
liness has practically disappeared from every mill in the group.

To customers this means not only that they get a good product.
It means that they have to pay only for effective work. They benefit
in dollars from the fact that there is little waste in cotton and worsted
yarn manufacture due to defects: that as the raw material passes
through the mills it becomes progressively cleaner instead of gathering

[22]

new dirt : that the finishing departments do not have to wash or scour
fabrics nearly as much as if the mills were less punctilious about
cleanliness.

If a mill is dirty, mill dirt is part of what you buy. You have to
pay for it. Mill cleanliness, on the other hand, is a dividend shared
by you.

THE RULE OF HYGIENE

A suggestion to cut down expenditures for hygiene and comfort
would be considered by the managements of these mills as absurd as
a proposal to cease buying new machinery. As already said, sanita-
tion and brightness make for - satisfactory operation and enhanced
value of product. Massachusetts State officials have reported that
these mills provide as healthful conditions as the public schools. As
a matter of actual statistics, the establishments have nearly double
the amount of fresh air required by the State laws for school children.
The space given to the workers is nearly ten times that demanded by
law for schools.

Besides dressing-rooms there are individual metallic lockers for
each employee. Women and men attendants maintain wash-rooms,
etc. in good condition.

So thoroughly have these matters demonstrated their utility, that
there is lively rivalry between the various managements for improve-
ments. A suggestive point is that men who had spent a great part

[23]

of their lives under other conditions, are the most enthusiastic up-
holders of the regime of these mills, and foremost in suggesting
further innovations. Such an idea as installing coffee boilers and
ovens for warming and cooking luncheons, for example, was eagerly
adopted, and in the Arlington and Acadia Mills has been so extended
that each floor has an equipment of its own, with a woman attendant
to look after the food.

THE RULE OF VIGILANCE

One of the characteristics of cotton and woolen mill operation is
the incessant tendency to variation of product. Minute variation in
the raw, slight changes in temperature and humidity, variations in the
adjustments all have instant effect on the tender material in its long
course through the intricate processes that convert it from a bit of
fluff to a finished product.

Everywhere, anywhere, at any moment, some such variation may
begin to alter the character of the entire product. Practically every
day develops some new problem in a mill, presenting itself in a form
that puzzles the most experienced. The yarn may run uneven in size.
It may show a sudden mysterious alteration of tensile strength. Its
appearance may be impaired. It may run too heavy or too light.

These difficulties are not abnormal in the sense that they are outside
of the normal day's work. They are an inseparable part of the regular
daily operation, and "eternal vigilance" is indeed the price that must
be paid for safety in quality.

Automatic machinery may, and does, catch many imperfections.
To install such devices is a matter of common manufacturing intel-
ligence. But machines cannot exercise vigilance. Vigilance is a
matter of human eyes, human brains, and more than all, human
conscientiousness. To maintain these qualities at their best, it is es-
sential to imbue the working force with the spirit of the mill. The
policy of the Whitman group guards against temporary idleness of
machinery which involves dismissal of operatives, and avoids those
changes of equipment from one manufacture to another, which cause
wasteful transfers of trained people.

Thus, while these mills maintain many systems of checks and safe-
guards to place individual responsibility, they assure vigilance by better
methods than penalties. The organization's good will towards its custo-
mers and its good will toward employees, demonstrated by action
through many years, have imbued the working force with good will for
the mills' products. The operatives are vigilant because they want to be.

[24]

"CLIMATIC" CONDITIONS

The regions occupied by the Whitman group of mills (Lawrence
in the northeastern end of Massachusetts, near the seacoast, and
New Bedford in the southeastern part of the State on Buzzard's Bay,
where the Gulf Stream swings near the coast) closely approximate
the ideal climate for cotton and wool manufacture; but even their
humidity and temperature are not sufficiently uniform to be accounted
completely right.

For this reason the group has made itself wholly independent of
natural climate, each mill maintaining its own appropriate artificial
climate the year around. Thus is obtained a uniformity of humidity
and temperature impossible under even the best natural advantages,
and conditions can be adjusted to any condition of manufacture. The
installations are such that the most minute alterations of humidity
and temperature automatically cause operation of controlling devices.

This phase of wool and cotton manufacture being supremely im-
portant, no single system of installation is depended on. Common
to all the mills are, of course, the many standard installations of
automatic humidifiers, drosophores, atomizers and similar appa-
ratus; but in addition each mill has special installations and systems
for its own particular purposes.

Thus the Acadia Mills in Lawrence guard against occasional dry
summer periods in that region by surrounding themselves at such
times with their own rain, having five tons of piping on the roofs
for that purpose. While a bright, hot sun shines on Lawrence from
a cloudless sky, the mills stand in a silver curtain of "Scotch Mist"
the moment the natural climate falls below a certain prescribed
condition.

The multiplication of installations by making perfect uniformity of
conditions, insures constant uniformity of product. The chance
visitor who does not know the intimate relationship of atmospheric
conditions to wool and cotton, would probably assume extravagance
when he sees such climate-making equipments as those in a single
mill like the Arlington establishment. But actually this part of
operation is so important that it justifies any expenditures that will
produce results.

A description of the Arlington Mills atmosphere-governing system
alone could easily fill a book as large as this volume, and it would
be fascinating to the technician, for this one detail of the mill is a
modern fairy story of science. A power plant ample to operate a

[25]

large industrial establishment is devoted to this single use. Such
devices as drosophores are counted literally by the hundreds. The
piping for atmospheric control and ventilation aggregates 28 miles.
All the air that is admitted to the mills is filtered and washed, making
for both hygiene and cleanliness of products. The ventilating system
is of enormous power, for it is called upon to force into the establish-
ment 3,600,000 cubic feet of air every hour. Hydrographic and
thermographic recording instruments are duplicated in elaborate ob-
servation stations throughout the place. Dynamos, air pumps, cooling
apparatus, live steam, blowers and suction pumps are parts of a be-
wildering system whose intricacies operate through more than 100
acres.

[26]

TheVAr Department of
THE UNITED STMES OF AMEWCA

RECOGNIZES IN THIS AWARD FOR DISTINGUISHED SERVICE

THE LOYALTY ENERGY AND EFFICIENCY IN THE PERFORMANa

OF THE WAR WORK BY WHICH

JPttt.XUtiitunttt (£^.3nt.

AIDED NLATERIALLY IN OBTAINING VICTORY FOR THE ARMS

OF THE Unhed States of America in the war with

THE Imperial German Government and the Imperial

AND Royal Austro -Hungarian Government

—-3.

HoTs^ber i, 1919

Bos

.;^.5

rn>r;

The rirootor f^f Purthiie, Et-nse ind Ciufflc.

T«:

^. T.Itr^nCo.. Lnc. Hortcn, :i*sa.

Certirfr^te of ::er!t.

!• In accordance with the r^cT-Katrfa' inn of
Dirsstc- of Purchase t cftrtlflcote of •^-it hf«3 Men s^nt
yon under 3«TVi-ate oorer. -

2. Th? cilitlon by the Dlr3;to- of ajr-ihasa

Tfll3 coattaotpr Is entitled to
el»(?n the GcTjnvwnt ».ni for a
in f'.rrlshin- rjpplles to the

'■::

.^,M..M,';,.S/k"5=crS';^,i;.rL':.:%s;j::

i to

5.. .cod.

^•^-^ '

03D. 1. sna.

■' 3::!t,

For Distinguished Service

[27]

-C^^

Arlington Mills

Lawrence, Mass.
ARLINGTON MILLS

TOftDE MARK REG ■ US ■ PRT-OFF-

ARLINGTON MILLS

Lawrence, Mass.
Capital Stock $12,000,000

OFFICERS

President: Franklin W. Hobbs Boston, Mass.

Treasurer: Albert H. Chamberlain Lawrence, Mass.

Agent: John T. Mercer Lawrence, Mass.

Clerk: H.\rry A. Wright Lawrence, Mass.

DIRECTORS

Albert H. Chamberlain Lawrence, Mass.

Robert H. Gardiner Boston, Mass.

Dudley N. Hartt Boston, Mass.

Franklin W. Hobbs Boston, Mass.

James R. Hooper Boston, Mass.

George E. Kunhardt Lawrence, Mass.

William K. Richardson Boston, Mass.

Charles W. Leonard Boston, Mass.

E. Kent Swift Whitinsville, Mass.

William Whitman, Jr Boston, Mass.

William Whitman Boston, Mass.

SELLING AGENTS

William Whitman Company, Inc. Offices: 78 Chauncy Street,
Boston, Mass.; 25 Madison Avenue, New York, N. Y.; 300
Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa.; Continental and Com-
mercial Bank Building, Chicago, 111.

THE ARLINGTON MILLS

LAWRENCE, MASS.

The Arlington Mills produce within themselves every element in
the manufacture of worsted fabrics. They buy, sort and grade their
own raw wool, make their own wool top, spin every grade of worsted
yarn, and weave, dye and finish cloth, delivering it ready for every
use in which their woven fabrics may be required.

The Arlington Top Mill, in addition to making wool top for the
Arlington spinning and weaving departments, cleanses, cards and
combs raw wool on commission, handling the raw wool consignments
as they are delivered by the owners, and returning the net product
in wool top, with complete certificates of weight, conditioning, etc.
Noil and other waste is saved and accompanies each shipment of tops.

WORSTED CLOTH, COTTON-WARP WORSTED FABRICS,
STAPLE AND FANCY

PIECE-DYED, CROSS-DYED, YARN-DYED

In its manufacturing operations, this establishment, comprising
the Arlington Mills in Lawrence, Mass., and a weaving and finish-
ing branch in North Adams, utilizes 2,495,304 square feet, or 57.24
acres, of floor space. It is one of the largest single cloth-producing
organizations in the world. Its product is finished ready for use as
material for garments or other purposes. The principal manufactures
are worsted fabrics for men's wear and womens wear. These general
titles cover every kind of such material used for clothing.

The mills are recognized for their Staples, such as serges, cheviots,
shepherd's checks, etc., which are of uniform construction year after
year. They are equipped also to make Fancies and Novelties which
vary according to fashion.

Arlington fabrics comprise Piece-dyed Fabrics woven from yarn
in the gray or natural state, either wholly worsted, or worsted with
plain or mercerized cotton yarn, or worsted with silk or wool yarn,
dyed in the piece; Cross-dyed Fabrics woven from wool or worsted
yarn in the gray with cotton yarn dyed black or fancy color, the
fabric being dyed by a process that colors only the wool; Yarn-dyed
Fabrics woven from dyed yarns all worsted or worsted and cotton.

[31]

Arlington Mills from thk rear

t^/: /'■

p:-rW

Main Corner of Arlington Mills Power House. This chimney is the largest in New England.

It is 300 FEET HIGH AND THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF ITS BASE IS 23 FEET 6V4 INCHES

The fabrics range in weights from 3 to 16 and more ounces to
the yard, and in widths from 35 to 58 inches. In their construction
are utihzed all the varieties of combing wools grown in the world —
Australian Merino and Cross-breds, South American Merino and
Cross-breds, Cape Merino. American Merino and Cross-breds, the
lustrous wools of pure English blood, and such wool-like material
as the mohair from the Angora goat and the alpaca from the South
American animal of that name.

This raw material is sorted under rules which fix grades especially
established for Arlington products. The character of the world's
wool varies astonishingly with each season's clip — so much so that
every year presents problems almost like those of a new business.
Adherence to standard is, therefore of the utmost importance if a mill
aims to supply its customers with products whose quality is uniform
season after season.

ARLINGTON MILLS WORSTED YARN SPINNING

Although at the time ot their erection the yarn-spinning mills
of the Arlington establishment were considered extraordinarily ex-
tensive for the possibilities of the general American market in yarns,
the mills' own cloth business consumes all that can be spun despite
continual enlargements. Indeed, new additional buildings had to be
erected in 1919-1920 for the one purpose of meeting the demands
of their own weave-rooms.

The size of the mills, and the number of spindles, twisters, warpers,
looms, etc., make an array of figures that suggest the term "colossal";
but the character of the working organization in control of this equip-
ment is such that Quality is the predominant feature of Arlington
product. Good work and not quantity production is the task set for
the workers. Quantity production is attained by ample facilities,
labor-saving devices, system and a sufficiency of workers, so that
neither men nor equipment are strained.

Arlington fabrics are profiting today from many past years of care
in building up an intelligent and reliable working force. More than
75 per cent of the organization consists of people born in America
or of English-speaking stock. The "floating" element is conspicu-
ously absent.

The number of employees who wear service pins testifies to the
permanence of employment, whose tenure may be indicated by the fact
that some of the pins represent terms of service as long as twenty-five

[ 33 ]

LT'SS

Arlington Mills, Lawrence, Mass. This establishment cleanses its own rai

DELIVERING THEiM READY FOR USE. It CONTAINS 26^

PLAN OF PROPERTY
ARLINGTON MILLS

LAWRENCE AND METHIEN MASS

i^^^i---

iiir'^wmiTiii

ES THE WOOL TOP, SPINS ITS OWN YARN, AND WEAVES, DYES AND FINISHES FABRICS,
ITS FLOOR SPACE IS 2,409.125 SQUARE FEET ^55.31 ACRES )

The First Arlington Mills, Lawrence, IIass., as they appeared in 1865

The Arlington Mills, fko.m a PHoTOGRArii mahl i.n ISuT

[36]

and more vear^. No pin can l)e earned by less than five years' con-
tinuous enij)loynient. The five-year pin of gold and blue enamel with
a gold star is in steady demand as employees continually qualify lor
it. Direct personal interest is further maintained by participation
for mill improvements through employees' committees whose sug-
gestions and recommendations are viewed as a valuable part of the
mills' co-operative system.

The jjrinciples of hygiene and condort that govern the whole group
of mills are expressed in the Arlington establishment by dressing
rooms, rest rooms, hospitals, facilities for warm meals, bubbling
fountains, individual steel lockers for each employee's belongings,
abundant spaces between machines, circulation of washed fresh air,
and encouragement of sports and amusements, extending to the for-
mation of a mill band which gives a weekly concert in front of the
mills during the lunch hour in summer.

The organization so fostered numbers almost 7000 people.

ARLINGTON WEAVES

Good Weaving Begins in the Yarn-spinning Department

Although the yarn spun in the Arlington Mills is consumed entirely
within the establishment, the testing and inspection departments in-
spect it as if it were to pass critical buyers, and in turn the weave-room
management scrutinizes it as if it had been purchased outside.

Warping rooms, slashers and other e(|uipments that prepare yarn
for the looms are supplied with many devices for delivering a good
warp, and their number and capacity is such that quantity delivery
can be maintained without the haste which makes for passing inferior
material.

The weaving, finishing and dyeing dejnirtments are provided with
rooms of unusual area and with saw-tooth glass roofs and tall windows
for maximum light. Each fabric is examined in the gray when it comes
from the loom. As it passes through the many finishing and dyeing
processes it is examined and re-examined. Thus every piece of cloth
made in this establishment is seen by many eyes that study each inch
of it; and when the product reaches the shipping department a final
close examination is made of the piece, again from end to end.

The Arlington looms in number alone would make this weaving
unit one of the very great industrial plants of the United States. But
beyond this matter of capacity is the variety of the equipment, and
the modernity of all the installations. They are of ever\ kind usefuf

[ 39 ]

Arlington Mill- \\ n vk Room, No. 2

for any purpose in cloth-making, and represent all the widths service-
able for worsted and woolen cloth. Looms of maximum widths are
so numerous that they alone exceed the number of all looms in many
large American and European weaving mills.

Supplied with these facilities, and fed with material whose quality
begins in the top mill, the weave-rooms are held to high performance.
The definition of quality in the Arlington Mills is not variable or
comparative. It calls for uniformity of quality not only throughout
any given run of fabric or for one season, but for every fabric always.

FINISHING ARLINGTON FABRICS

In previous pages we have gone into an explanation of the methods
of manufacture up to the gray cloth, showing the infinite watchfulness
and care essential to the production of perfect fabric from the loom.

But at this stage the work of manufacturing the cloth is only par-
tially done. The remaining processes of manufacture such as finishing
and dyeing are of equal it not ot greater importance. In fact, however

IK ll(llll/ii\ r\l. Tl KBI\K RllOM, SH(>UI\(, TWI> MACHINES OF
7500-KILO\VATTS EACH

[40]

good a cloth may be when it comes from the loom, it can be easily
spoiled in either of the subsequent processes.

In the worsted manufacture the vital part of production lies in these
two processes. It is difficult to say that one is more important than the
other. They go hand in hand, and are practically dependent upon
each other. In the early days of the cloth manufacture the fulling was
a separate trade by itself, but now in our American method of manu-
facture of worsteds it is combined with the other branches. Colors
should be durable as well as beautiful and the aim of finishing is to
develop the best possible fabric out of the material used. The finish
must be adapted to the materials used and it must be suitable to the
use to which it is subsequently to be put in the form of clothing. The
processes through which a woven worsted fabric passes after it leaves
the loom and before it is ready for use as a finished cloth, are so
intricate that they bewilder everybody who visits even a small cloth-
mill. A cloth under process of finishing is alternately twisted like
rope, smoothed out, washed, dried and washed again, beaten, twisted,
smoothed and twisted, etc., in a manner that seems confused.

Arlington Mills. Part ok Vertical Tlrbim; Khhm. >hipuin(. a .SOUUkilouait anu a

2000-KILOWATT machine

[41]

AijLiNGTON Mills. View of Top Mill, showing part FROiNTiNO on Broadway and North Side,
Lawrence, Mass.

There is an important fact behind this. While the production of
a piece of cloth really is according to steady plan, there are so many
varieties of cloth and so many varieties of finish that no first-class
results can be obtained by routine conduct of manufacture. The
finest finishing installation that can be assembled is not good enough
to produce uniformly good cloth. The machinery can do its work
perfectly, but something greater is necessary. That greater thing
is Knowledge and no machine has it.

Practically every piece of cloth has characteristics of its own. The
quality of the season's wool clip, alterations in wool under spinning
and weaving, effects of weather, all express themselves daily in a
cloth-mill. Only knowledge and experience can meet such condi-
tions. The Arlington motto, "Skill Wins Favor," means that an
Arlington fabric is the result of human efficiency.

To describe all the steps in finishing a piece of cloth would require
a large technical volume. The number of manipulations may be
indicated by naming some: burling, washing, beaming, crabbing,
scouring, fulling, carbonizing, steaming and stretching, gigging,
napping, lustering, tentering, drying, shearing, dyeing, brushing,
pumicing, polishing, pressing and decating.

The sequence of many operations varies according to the cloth and
its purpose. Some cloths demand nearly all the processes. Others
suffer from too many. Some profit from manipulations performed
to the maximum. Others must be treated with extreme moderation.

[42]

For an example we may take fulling. The principle of fulling is
as old as cloth-making. Equipments for it are largely standard, and
are available to any cloth-mill. The process, however, has never been
standardized and probably never will be, because fabrics made from
wool are whimsical and never the same. For this reason the products
of various cloth-mills with exactly similar fulling equipments may
differ surprisingly. One will produce an excellent cloth and the other
may produce a failure.

Is a cloth to emerge from the fulling mill in fine, "open" condition?
Is it to be compact and "snappy"? The answer depends on the
operators. One cloth will profit from generous scouring or soaping.
One may gain from being scoured first, the very next piece may
need a reversal of processes. Differences in treatment that may seem
almost infinitesimal will make great differences in "handle" and ap-
pearance. Napping is not always required for raising a nap, but an
expert workman will see that a given fabric can be improved by a
gentle degree of napping or teazing.

Arlington Mills. Partial view of boiler house

[43]

These large and small refinements cannot be obtained Ijy rote, and
it is not possible to secure them from an uninterested working force,
yet it is this aspect of a cloth-mill that determines the attractiveness
of a cloth in the workrooms or show windows of the retailer. Beauty
of color, for example, depends greatly on niceties of finish. Careless-
ness or poor technique in a single operation such as drying will produce
striking unevenness and other defects in the best dye. Again, the
finest finish may be destroyed by an unskilled dyeing department.
The value obtained by the purchaser depends on the whole sum of
efficiency in the mill.

The acknowledged success of Arlington dveing is due very simply
to the same principles that produce good Arlington wool top, yarns
and weaves — good raw materials, modern methods for preparing
dyes and for applying them, and careful work by a careful, experi-
enced organization. There are, of course, particular Arlington
appliances and processes, and quite unusual facilities such as the
chemical laboratory which is believed to be one of the most complete
that can be found in anv similar industrv. Its staff and resources

Arlington Mills. Pond and Water-cooling Apparatus in the Foreground. Power House at

Right. North View of No. 2 Weave Room. The building in the rear

contains the finishing departments of this cloth mill

[44]

■■V,': ■■ '•• '. r- ■ ■ ' ' •

A Flulk ut 3UUU .Shelf. Thk Akli.ncton Mills uses the fleeces of more than 35,000 sheep

IN A SINGLE day's OPERATION

cover every element from analysis of raw dye material to color tests of
product in any state. The mills also are singularly fortunate in water
supply, and further assure the purity of it by filter beds and continual
tests that prevent any injurious ingredients from entering the dve
vats. But behind this whole manufacturing system of the mill is that
guiding force of science and practical Knowledge which extracts from
the material facilities and resources the best virtues that they contain.

WOOL TOP

■' Wool top " is the trade name for wool that has been brought to
the point where it is ready to spin into yarn. It represents the first
workable stage of wool after it has been sorted, degreased, washed,
carded and combed.

"Top" is the net value that the owner gets out of his gross weight
of raw wool. No matter how much his purchase weighs in the raw,
or what he pays for it, the final result is determined by the value of
the wool top.

Theoretically, any worsted mill can make its own wool top out of
raw wool. But long experience of the economies to be gained by
handling raw wool in large quantities and by specialized methods has
led to general recognition of the advantage in making wool top pro-
duction a separate business.

[45]

One of the Water Powers owned by the Arlington Mills. This illustration shows the dam

AT MiLLVlLLE, SOME DISTANCE ABOVE THE LaWRENCE ESTABLISHMENTS

European wool-manufacturing districts practiced separate wool
top production long before America's industry attained a powerful
position. The Arlington Top Mill, in addition to introducing the
principle in the United States, introduced a new method of cleansing
wool— the naphtha solvent process. It eliminates the many large
and small injuries done to wool by hot-water scouring with soap and
obtains the maximum amount of serviceable wool.

The erection of the Top Mill was considered by the trade at the
time to be a most hazardous experiment. Today, however, the mill
is equipped to handle more than one and one-quarter million pounds
of raw wool every week in regular order of business. Since its estab-
lishment, more than 500 million pounds of cleansed wool have been
produced by it with profit to mill and customers. Its capacity is equal
to one-fifth of the entire wool clip of the United States.

HANDLING WOOL ON COMMISSION

The Arlington Top Mill is so designed and operated that each
shipment of raw wool to be cleansed and combed into wool top on
commission, is handled by itself as it would be handled by the owner

[46]

in his own establishment. The consignment is taken straight from
the freight cars to its own division on the storage floors and thence
goes to a similar division in the sorting department, to be handled by
a staff assigned to it alone and segregated from every other sorting
force in the building. Rejected material goes directly into bags
tagged for the owners. The selected wool drops into bins from
which it goes to the degreasing plant, passing with similar integrity
through the succeeding processes of washing, carding and combing.
Under the combs are special bins into which drops the noil to be
bagged, so that, when the last wool top has been packed the shipment
is complete with everything that belongs to the original consignment
of raw wool.

SORTING WOOL ON COMMISSION

Customers who send raw wool to the Arlington Top Mill are served
by sorting and grading staffs who are experienced in doing this work
accurately according to owners' instructions. Skilled "over-lookers"
superintend the work specially on each consignment. The principle
is the same as if the sorting were being done on a customer's own
premises.

THE SOLVENT PROCESS FOR CLEANSING WOOL

Old methods for cleansing raw wool, many of which are still prac-
ticed extensively, are based on the simple principle of scouring the
natural grease and other dirt out of it with hot water and soap. This
method involves three factors which injures the fibre — over-heating,
injuries from the chemicals in the soap, and matting or felting due
to the necessary forcible manipulation in the soap bath.

Under-scouring and over-scouring are equally harmful. Insuf-
ficient cleansing that leaves the wool greasy makes so much trouble
in the yarn and in the woven goods, that the tendency is toward

A Merino Ram

[47]

over-scouring, especially since the line between under-scouring and
over-scouring is hard to draw. But over-scouring affects the wool
fibre severely, and especially so if the temperature of the water is
high, as it generally is.

It is very rare indeed that a scouring solution can be maintained
at uniform temperature throughout. Uneven temperature makes
uneven condition of wool. The difficulty caused by the soap problem
may be understood from the fact that a 5 per cent solution of caustic
soda with heat will destroy wool in 5 minutes. Most wool soaps con-
tain some of this severe alkali.

Everv sort of defect follows; from fibre that is harsh and stringy
to fibre unduly soft with a greasy slipperiness. The wool cells are
altered, with resultant losses of strength. The felting causes waste
in the cards.

The naphtha process cleanses wool without scouring that does
violence to fibre. Its action on the wool is limited wholly to separating
it from the grease. No heat is used. The degreased wool emerges
from the naphtha kiers and the driers odorless, and cleansing re-
quires only the most gentle manipulation in tepid water in the washing
machines. No soap is introduced for this washing, because the

Carding Room in the Top Mill ok the Arlington Mills Group

[48]

naphtha process leaves in the wool sufficient potash which transforms
itself into a natural bland soap in the washing vats.

The wool thus gained is sweet and clean and brilliantly white,
representing a maximum amount of useful hbre. Because none of
the staple is broken, tangled, matted or rendered stringy by mechanical
manipulation, there is not only great reduction of the waste in carding,
but Arlington cleansed wool produces top with a minimum of noil
from the combs.

Thus, the naphtha solvent process as developed in the Arlington
Mills mean : Better wool, and more of it.

The plant can pass the fleeces of more than 30,000 sheep through
its degreasing kiers in a day, yet it controls its thousands of gallons
of naphtha so perfectly that the most sensitive nose cannot scent a
trace of odor.

ARLINGTON WOOL WASHING

In Arlington wool washing, everything is done to avoid manipu-
lation of wool, because manipulation tends to mat or felt it and
otherwise to affect working values. Hot water and soap scouring
operations, far from loosening wool up, do the reverse, forming it into
dense or stringv masses.

Wool-combing Room in the Tof Mill ok the Arlington Mills Groui

[49]

The Great Kiehs in the Wool Decreasing Plant ok ihe Aulinlion Mii.io. Ihe wool in its

NATURAL STATE IS LOADED INTO THESE TANKS AND CLEANSED BY NAPHTHA. ThE PLANT
HANDLES MORE THAN ONE MILLION POUNDS OF RAW WOOL WEEKLY

In the days of individual workers washing their own small lots
of wool by hand, most of the cleansing was done gently in running
streams, and this remains the ideal method today. To duplicate the
condition on a great scale and confoniiably to the modern necessity
for production, was the aim in planning the Arlington method of
washing.

A series of long vats or "bowls" is so connected that water flows
through them by gravity with an action like that of a natural stream.
The raw wool is moved wholly by the current, being floated like foam.
The natural suds that form from the potash left in the wool, act on it
without violence and require no forcible scouring. Being untouched by
hand or implement, it arrives at the end of the long stream in excellent
open condition for the driers. As the water is tepid, never approach-
ing any temperatures dangerous to wool, the washed wool escapes all
the injuries caused by overheated and unevenly heated water, emerges
without discolored or weakened fibres, and has not suffered the harm-
ful shrinkages which are consequences of the use of heat.

Avoidance of all unnecessary manipulation is a feature of every
succeeding process in making the tops. From the degreasing plant

[50]

to the wool top packing department the material is handled with a
delicacy made possible by special equipment and purpose.

"CONDITIONING" WOOL

Wool has extraordinary facility for absorbing moisture. It may
absorb from 5 to 35 per cent, and in any one day it may show widely
varying gains or losses at different hours, according to changes in the
humidity and temperature.

An absolutely reliable standard of condition that shall be fair to
both buyer and seller is the only way to prevent losses on either side,
or disputes in which both sides may quite honestly conflict. So
important is this point that in Europe there have long been official
institutions for certifying the condition of wool shipments.

Such official "conditioning houses" could not serve in the United
States where the wool market is not concentrated in a few places as
in Europe. Therefore, the Arlington Mills undertook early in its
existence to seek exact facts for American use, and for a full year
conducted careful tests which provided material for a series of charts
that showed the weight-variation curves for all the hours of the year.
The calculations made possible the establishment of a reliable and
satisfactory standard for conditioning wool in the United States.

This Arlington standard calls for a fixed allowance of 15 per cent
for regain on wool tops. It has proved so correct, and so fair equally to
buyer and seller that it has been adopted by the trade in general as
it gives all concerned a uniform basis for calculation, no matter what
the humidity may be at any time of sale or shipment.

The allowance is determined by placing a given quantity of top
in a receptacle where it is subjected to hot, perfectly dry air till it
is absolutely "bone-dry." It is then weighed accurately on a fine
scale, and to the bone-dry weight thus ascertained there is added 15
per cent for regain.

In other words, bone-dry weight with the 15 per cent added for
regain, represents a fair average of wool in the United States. In
actual use, of course, wool never can be bone-dry. It absorbs
moisture so quickly that even when it is being removed from the
drying receptacle to the scales it must be protected against the outer
atmosphere.

The Arlington Mills conditioning rooms are fitted with devices
to insure strict conditioning, and are under charge of men of long
experience in this one work. European establishments of this charac-
ter, such as the great conditioning house in Bradford, England, are

[51]

Exterior View of the Hoosac Department in Ni!uth ViiA\r>. \Ia^>. Thi> Mill i> uriuMKn \> a

PART OF the establishment OF THE ARLINGTON MlLLS IN LAWRENCE, MasS.

operated officially, and their certificates are legal evidence in law.
The Arlington establishment is private; but it is gratifying to be
able to say that the certificates which it issues with each shipment
are accepted by the trade with the same confidence.

Plan of Property of Hoosac Mills

[52]

ARLINGTON MILL FABRICS

SERGES

All-wool Serges, Piece Dyed, Clear Finish
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Serges, Piece Dyed, Unfinished
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Cream Serges
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Mixture Serges, Wool Dyed, Clear Finish
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Mixture Serges, Wool Dyed, Unfinished
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Melange or Vigoreaux Serges, Clear Finish
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

Worsted and Cotton Plaited Serges, Piece Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

Cotton Warp Serges, Piece Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

CHEVIOTS

All-wool Cheviots, Piece Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

SUITINGS

All-wool Fancy Weave Serge Suitings, Clear Finish
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Fancy Weave Serge Suitings with Hairline Stripes
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Mixture Suitings, Wool Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Melange or Vigoreaux Suitings
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Plaids and Shepherd Checks, Yarn Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Panamas, Piece Dyed
For Women's Wear

[53]

ARLINGTON MILL FABRICS

SUITINGS

(Continued)

All-wool Tricotines, Piece Dyed
For Women's Wear

All-wool Poplins, Piece Dyed
For Women's Wear

All-wool Gabardines, Piece Dyed
For Women's Wear

All-wool Cheviot Suitings, Piece Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

All-wool Tropical Suitings, Wool Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

Cotton Warp Plaids and Checks, Yarn Dyed
For Women's Wear

Cotton Warp Serge Suitings with Hairline Stripes, Cross Dyed
For Women's Wear

RAINCLOTHS

All-wool, Gabardines, Wool Dyed

For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

Cotton-filled Gabardines, Cross Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

Worsted and Cotton Twist Suitings, Piece Dyed
For Men's Wear and Women's Wear

Cotton Warp Cashmeres

SPECIALTIES

In volume large enough to warrant, specialties will be made

[54 J

MoNOMAC Spinning Company

Lawrence, Mass.

|f^|\lfif6cc,"t;tl

.It'll tCt.^LS

Company

MONOMAC SPINNING COMPANY

Lawrence, Mass.
Capital Stock $5,000,000

OFFICERS

President: William Whitman Boston, Mass.

Treasurer: Ernest N. Hood Boston, Mass.

Clerk: Frank C. Chamberlain Boston, Mass.

Agent: Walter M. Hastings Lawrence, Mass.

DIRECTORS

Arthur T. Bradlee Boston, Mass.

Louis H. Fitch Boston, Mass.

Fr\nkun W. Hobbs Boston, Mass.

Ernest N. Hood Boston, Mass.

Malcolm D. Whitman New York, N. Y.

Willum Whitman, Jr Boston, Mass.

William Whitman Boston, Mass.

SELLING AGENTS

William Whitman Company, Inc. Offices: 78 Chauncy Street,
Boston, Mass. ; 25 Madison Avenue, New York, N. Y. ; 300
Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa.; Continental and Com-
mercial Bank Building, Chicago, 111.

MONOMAC SPINNING COMPANY PRODUCTS

The Monomac Spinning Company is a worsted-yarn mill, producing
single and ply-yarns both in all worsted and merino, in counts ranging
from 10 to 60. These yarns are all drawn and spun on the French
system. They are put up for the knitting trade on cops and cones, and
for weaving on dresser spools or in skeins. Both worsted and merino
yarns are made in various mixes as desired.

The mill has a reputation for single warp yarns and for single
yarns for tops for rubber shoes where an extremely level yarn is
required.

MONOMAC WORSTED YARNS

The Monomac Spinning Company selects and purchases its own
raw wool, choosing and grading it according to the many particular
kinds of worsted yarns made by the mill. As in the other mills of
the group, hygiene, cleanliness and light are maintained for the
equal benefit of workers and product, and the latest facilities for
correct temperature and humidity assure unvarying conditions for the
work in all stages of progress.

An organization has been built up with accurate knowledge of the
production of French spun yarns, and the machinery for this purpose
is the best existing in either America or Europe, having been made
by the acknowledged leaders in French spinning equipment.

The installation of mule and ring-spinning frames and of finishing
machineries is at least as ample as any in the western hemisphere.
Its size was dictated by the principle of having an equipment that
can always meet any demand for quantity without pressure on the
time and care that are necessary at all times for uniform standard
of quality.

MONOMAC MERINO YARNS

The yarn known by the trade-term "Merino" is, as is of course
well known, a yarn spun of cotton and wool combined in many various
proportions. If it is desired simply to produce a woolen-hke yarn at
a price far below wool, the cost of production can be reduced in-
definitely by simply reducing the care in manufacture. But such a
"merino" yarn is in effect only a wool yarn adulterated with cotton.

In true merino yarn manufacture, the principle is exactly the op-
posite. Cotton and worsted are combined not to adulterate the worsted
or to produce a cheap imitation of wool yarn, but to create a stand-
ard product of quality with its own great value; among which is the

[59]

manufacture of underwear that will shrink less than if made from
pure worsted.

A cheap "merino" yarn can be made cheaply by simply mj.vmg
cotton and wool. The best merino yarn is made from blends of cotton
and wool that have been combed.

In the cheap mixture, cotton and wool fight. In spots, wool may
dominate. In other spots, the cotton dominates. Such irregularities
will run throughout every ''merino" yarn improperly made. In the
high quality blend, the wool and the cotton work together. The yarn
throughout its length is a uniform product with the wool dominating.

':i^mm^^mm

Partial View of a Kiii \i ii \li i.i M'inmm. Khom i\ im, Monomac Spinning Company's Mills

[60]

no matter what the proportions of wool and cotton may be. The process
of manufacture is not different in general principle in either case. But
the care and expenditure devoted to the details decide if the yarn is to
be a true and useful merino.

In the Monomac system of manufacture, the merino character is
obtained as the initial step, by the use of a beautiful long staple
cotton grown in Peru. Peruvian cotton of high rough grade is more
nearly like wool than any vegetable fibre now known to commerce.
It is not smooth and "sleazy," but has a woolen feel and character
to a marked degree. This is the kind of cotton used in Monomac

Partial View of a French Mi le Spinning Room in the Monomac Spinning Company's Mills

[61]

'"Merino Yarns." It passes through a number of processes including
combing before being blended with worsted top on special mixing
boxes by a particular method to make a blend that insures the main-
tenance through all subsequent operations of genuine merino.

Chief of these merino characteristics is that nowhere must the
cotton "ride" on the outside of the yarn. The importance of this
quality to the user is readily understood by remembering that wool
is an animal fibre while cotton is a vegetable fibre. This difference
causes marked and often fatal differences under treatment such as
dyeing. In a poorly mixed merino yarn the cotton rides on the

Thk French System of Drawing Worsted Yarns. A Room in the Monomac Spinning Company's
Mills. Lawrence, Mass.

[62]

outside. It is obvious that in a yarn made with imperfect mixing,
when either the cotton or worsted is dyed, the result will be unsatis-
factory. Monomac merino yarns may be dyed without showing
weakness. Defects in a finished fabric naturally must be in exact
proportion to the yarn. The weaver and knitter can estimate his
damage only when it is too late.

The wool used in Monomac merino yarns is of the same source
and character as the wool used for the all-worsted yarns. The cotton
is purchased and graded by the Monomac Spinning Company.

The French System of Drawing Worsted Yarns. A Room in the -Monomac Spinning Company's
Mills, Lawrence, Mass.

[63]

MONOMAC SINGLE WARP YARNS

One of the Monomac specialties is production of the extremely and
uniformly level thread required for single warp yarns and for the single
yarns used for the tops of rubber shoes.

The degree to which uniformity of production has been brought in
all the mills of the group, is a large factor in meeting all such special
demands. Quality only in "high spots" is of little value to the user
of a worsted or merino yarn. He may be lucky enough to get a
chance shipment of high quality but if the next shipment varies, or
if there are various qualities in one shipment, his net result will not
be much above what he can get from the poorest quality in the lot.

In the weaving or knitting-room, the price to be obtained for
quality in the finished product, and the economies to be gained by
swift, efficient manufacture, are positively founded on continual, de-
pendable evenness of the yarn. For this reason the Monomac Spin-
ning Company makes Uniformity of Quality one of its big rules of
manufacture.

A user will find any given Monomac product the same in quality
next year or the year after next as it is now. If it can be improved,
it will be. It will not be permitted to deteriorate.

A Very Old Spinmnc; Wheel of European Pattern used in America before the factory system

DISPLACED HOUSEHOLD HAND WORK

[64]

\< '1

GX .fe^S

MONOMAC SPINNING COMPANY

FRENCH SPUN WORSTED AND
MERINO YARNS

Gray

Worsted Yarns Natural and Silver Mixes

In counts 14 to 60

Gray

Merino Yarns Natural and Silver Mixes

In counts 14 to 60

Made in the following percentages of Worsted and Rough
Peruvian Cotton :

Worsted 50% 60% 70% 80%

Cotton 507c 40%, 30% 20%

Single yarns on Cops, Cones and in Skeins.

Ply Yarns on Cones, Dresser Spools and in Skeins.

For Hosiery, Underwear and Weaving.

Cotton Yarns of Whitman
Group of Mills

COTTON YARNS OF THE WHITMAN GROUP OF MILLS

An undeviating standard and method of selection of the raw cotton
is in force uniformly for all the mills. It stands as an uncompromising
sentinel at the door of each. Not a single pound of cotton can pass
into the manufacturing departments if it fails to meet the laws laid
down as to grade, length of staple, cleanness, uniformity, color and
strength.

Rejected cotton cannot enter any mill on any pretext, even for use
in the lowest priced mill product. It goes back to the shippers. All
cotton is bought from them with this understanding, and as the mills
pay a premium for the privilege, the cotton examiners are at full
liberty to be exacting to the last degree.

Similarly, after cotton does enter a mill, only its best is used. The
only cotton permitted to enter the yarn-spinning process is the cotton
that has successfully passed the cards and the combs. Not an ounce
of the tons that fall away under carding and combing ever enters into
any mill product. No matter how fair in appearance or pleasing in
qualitv. it is sent back as waste, and is so disposed of.

Part of Twisting Room. Nonquitt Smnmnc CoiirANV Mills

[68]

To reject all cotton remorselessly that is not absolutely up to the
standard means an amount of daily waste that may seem extravagant.
But while it is costly to throw cotton away as waste, it is more costly
to put it through the mill processes with the inevitable injury to the
mill's good reputation.

To economize on waste is an economy that does not exist in the
Whitman group of mills. Large as its percentage is, experience has
demonstrated beyond all manner of doubt that unsparing rejection
of cotton saves money to both mill and customer every year.

Cotton is examined and selected in a place specially constructed
for the purpose. Automatic humidifying appliances keep the tem-
perature and humidity at a constant point. Walls tinted a neutral
gray, and great windows provided with a system of adjustable shades,
assure an unvarying condition of light for examining and comparing
tints. United States Government samples of the various grades of
cotton are at hand under glass to maintain them unaltered as standards,
and in addition the examiners have before them full size photographs
of these standards. As in all other parts of the mills, scrupulous
cleanliness is the rule.

Rejected cotton is removed at once to the waste rooms where it is
graded and baled to be sold as waste. Accepted cotton is labelled
and otherwise marked beyond all possibility of losing its identity in
any of the succeeding mill processes.

USES OF COTTON YARNS

To apply the word "innumerable" to the uses to which cotton
yarn is put, is an exaggeration, but only a slight one. There is
hardly a modern activity that does not require something made from it.

An attempt to set down even a limited list of its more prominent
uses would result only in recording practically everything with which
mankind is concerned — transportation, agriculture, the household,
electricity, mining, the fisheries, clothing, book publishing, chemistry.
As said in an address by William Whitman:

"Cotton is the cheapest as well as the most useful fibre known.
Cotton manufactures form the cheapest, most useful, most indispen-
sable and most extensive part of the clothing of the great human
family. Mingled and intermingled with almost all other fibres, and
in all forms, cotton clothing is worn by mankind. Its use is not
confined to any country or climate. Actually and figuratively, cotton
lies nearer the human heart than any other substance for clothing
which the art of man has produced. We walk in it by day and

[69]

we sleep in it by night. With the exception of food, it is difficult to
conceive what could have a greater value. Nor are the uses of cotton
manufactures confined to clothing. The versatility of cotton, so to
speak, is marvelous.

"The limits of an ordinary address preclude me from attempting
to enumerate the various uses to which it is put, and I will content
myself with speaking of only one of the very interesting uses that
recently came under my observation.

"In crossing the Island of Porto Rico from San Juan to Ponce, I
saw hundreds of tobacco plantations in the valley and on the sides of
the hills completely covered with cotton cloth. Some of these covered
more than 100 acres, and you may imagine the beautiful contrast
these plantations covered with white cloth made with the verdure
of the hills as a background."

COTTON YARNS FOR KNITTING

Although spinning and knitting are older than recorded human
history, new technical questions arise almost daily. In this as in all
modern industry, the great fact is that while scientific advance con-
tinually lessens the demand on human physical exertion and labor, it
increases in rapid ratio the demand on human foresight, carefulness
and intelligence. In that aspect, by the way, there seems to us to lie
the true civilizing meaning of machinery — not to save mere dollars
by eliminating human labor, but to liberate men from all unnecessary
manual drudgery and make them truly free to use their finer mental
powers for the real work of mankind, which is to produce the best
work possible in every field.

In our mills, machinery is so utilized. New labor-saving devices are
being added continually, and all machinery is so placed and operated
as to give the fullest freedom to the human worker's attentiveness.
Thus, in the production of knitting yarns, there is concentration by
the whole working force on the task of eliminating in everv step of

A Skein of Cotton Yarn. Among other things, the Nonqiitt Spinning Company Mills
IN American production of high-grade combed cotton yarns for mercerizing

[70]

manufacture those things which make for waste, seconds, broken
needles, etc. — all those defects which, if they slip through, cause
interrupted production to the customer and the subtle deterioration
that creeps into an establishment when the workers have to fight
annoying and harassing daily troubles that should not occur.

The Manomet, Nonquitt and Acadia establishments work for all
those details that shall assure a yarn as free as yarn can be made
from knots, slubs and other imperfections that are the bane of knitters.

The troubles caused by imperfect knitting yarns often are so ap-
parently trifling in detail that they defy inclusion in any system of
cost-accounting. But these tiny troubles, occurring here and there
throughout a whole establishment, day after day, mean a big sum
total at the end of a year or of a contract.

It is our effort to deliver yarns that shall prevent such losses.

COTTON YARNS FOR WEAVING

Production plays so important a part in weaving, that defects in the
yarn which check or slow down the work are serious and expensive.
Looms that are stopped for broken ends in the warp are a dead loss
for that length of time and in addition the pay of the workers is lost.
Where the hands are paid by piece-work, they, too, lose money, thus
laying a cost on both mills and operatives

Another loss due to broken ends is that they mean seconds or
imperfections in the goods.

The goal of perfection toward which we should aspire would,
naturally, be a point where a loom runs continuously, with no ends
breaking and no other stoppage, giving its maximum product to
manufacturer and operative.

In buying warp yarns, the general custom is to test them for their
breaking strength. This, however, is not an infallible guide. A

Cotton Yarn on the Plt-up known as a Cone

Cotton Yarn Plt-i p on Tl'Bes

[71]

yarn may have high breaking strength and at the same time have
very hltle elasticity or resihency. In the process of weaving, such
a yarn will snap and break oftener than a yarn of somewhat lower
breaking strength with greater elasticity or resiliency.

It is the practice of the mills to study each grade of stock used
by them with all these facts in mind, and to make the yarn for warp
purposes in that particular way and with that particular twist which
shall give it the best possible properties for actual use in the loom.
In the warping and other processes the yarn in these mills is so
manipulated and prepared that the weaver shall get from it the best
quality in his product as well as the greatest possible yardage in
production.

The fact that the mills of this group turn their own yarn into
cotton fabric, cotton and silk mixtures, worsted and cotton mixtures
and otiier forms of woven fabrics, gives the yarn-mills the continuous
benefit of experience. It enables them to do more than to meet
problems that arise among our customers. It has enabled them to
anticipate many. The manufacture of weaving yarn, therefore, is
managed throughout these mills by accurate knowledge of what the
weaver needs in any field ; and the yarn experts have the co-operation
of the weaving experts in solving any new problem.

UNDERWEAR YARNS

In producing yarns for underwear, the mills, conforming to their
principle of studying the user's requirements and problems, consider
the yarn not simply as it is when ready for the put-ups, but how it
will work up, and how the finished product will look and feel.

In this large branch of the cotton fabric industry, quality in the yarn
is vital to the manufacturer, for the consumer's impression as to quality
and worth depends largely on its appearance. The person who buys
underwear wants it to look clear and feel soft to the hands. Specks
or spots suggest discomfort, and such a suggestion will be enough
to cause it, even though the specks be quite innocent. Therefore
a single shipment of defective yarn may injure a laboriously built-up
reputation.

The underwear yarns of the Whitman Company group of mills are
combed to the maximum, and all succeeding processes are alike aimed
toward assuring a knitted fal)ric that shall look and feel well, be
smooth and clear, and to the sharpest scrutiny prove itself free from
specks and with that luster which comes only from yarn evenly spun
from choice cotton.

[72]

The handsomeness of a fabric has its inception on the cotton fields.

Cotton is a bloom, and it is not a greatly exaggerated comparison
to say that like a rose it must be plucked at the moment of full
fruition if it is to be perfect. It has not attained its value if picked
unripe. If picked after its best moment, it has lost something of its
richness of full "bloom." As wilting robs the rose of color, so weather
tinges the cotton and otherwise injures it, and mill processes that aim
to correct or cover up the faults are limping behind the original mis-
take of permitting such cotton to enter the mill at all.

HOSIERY YARNS

While the factors that make a good underwear yarn are largely the
same for hosiery, a few words may be said about the value of quality
in yarns used for the latter purpose.

It is a trade assumption that because hosiery is dyed, the yarn
for it need not necessarily be so perfect in the finer points of appear-
ance, etc., since the dye may be depended on to do much toward
eliminating superficial and minor faults. While this is partially true,
it must be remembered that dye is expensive, and that the expense is
justified only by the beauty of the resultant product. It is, therefore,
good business to try to get 100 per cent of value out of it.

The more nearly right a yarn is, the more fully will the elegance
of the dye be apparent. Yarn that at a slightly higher first cost will
most nearly approximate the effect of silk when worked up into dyed
hosiery, is unquestionably the most profitable yarn to use for any
product that is to be sold at any price higher than the lowest.

In tiiis product, appearance generally does the selling. Clearly
it is not good selling to discount expensive knitting and dyeing by
applying them to the yarns not fully worthy of the expense.

COTTON YARNS FOR SILK-FILLING

Of all cotton yarns made, none requires more skill and knowledge
of the particular business in which it is to be used, than does the
cotton yarn made for filling silk goods. In this trade the user must
estimate the value of the cotton yarn not by its cost as cotton yarn,
but by the cost of his expensive silk yarns.

A 10 per cent imperfection in a cotton filling yarn costs the user
not merely 10 per cent of the value of the cotton. It will cost him
at least 10 per cent of the value of his silk and may, indeed, lay a
far heavier penalty on his warp.

[73]

It is here "Where Quahty Counts." The mere cost of the cotton
yarn falls away absolutely when it is worked up in juxtaposition to
the precious material.

The clearest cotton yarn in this trade is the cheap yarn.

Cotton yarn for silk-filling simply must not be made cheaply. It
must be combed to a high wasteage. It must be spun as evenly
as skill and care can provide. Full, round, lofty yarn is vital for a
cotton-filled silk fabric.

A cotton filling yarn that fails sufficiently to approximate silk in
appearance and quality, not only betrays itself in the silk fabric, but
it measurably reduces the silk to its own inferior grade. The very
richness of silk is its weakness when used with poor cotton yarn.
The contrast reacts entirely on the silk, and generally does it so
violently that the most inexperienced eye can see it even though it
may not be able to "spot" the reason.

Silk cannot "pull up" a poor cotton filling yarn. Poor cotton
can and does "pull down" the silk.

COTTON YARNS FOR WEBBING AND BRAIDING

The Whitman group of mills makes a specialty of cotton yarn for
the manufacturing of webbing and braiding, and in this field, as in
others, works on the principle that the best selling argument is a
satisfied user who has obtained a good product from yarns that work
up well and economically.

Webbing

In webbing, and especially in elastic webbing, .an especially im-
portant point is loftiness of yarns so that it will cover up the rubber
thread warp in the elastic webbing and make a fair, uniform texture
in other kinds. To achieve this result, special yarns are made by us
for this purpose, and they are produced both in soft twist and in the
harder twist required for special work. The yarns are furnished
either gassed or ungassed, in counts to suit the specific requirements
of customers.

Braiding

To withstand the extreme abrasion of yarn incident to the braiding
process, the most scientific construction is necessary. The Whitman
group of mills have developed their methods to a point where this
quality is fully reached in the special yarns made by them both in
the gray and in mercerized. A special braid twist is produced, and the
yarns can be furnished in any of the counts or grades shown in
the classified list for knitting yarns.

[74]

Electrical Trade

For insulation and covering of wires in electrical work the very
heaviest cotton yarns are used on cables and heavy wires and the
counts run thence down to the very finest for the delicate work of
winding and insulating the thinnest magnet wires. To meet the
demand in this field efficiently, therefore, it is necessary to maintain
a system and mill equipment which produces constantly all counts
from as heavy as 4's to 100s.

Under our group plan we are able to deliver a full range of numbers.

Yarns for the electrical trade are usually put on tubes, but can be
delivered in other forms if desired.

Quality of cotton used and evenness of spinning are important for
effective work in this trade.

Sewing and Shoe Thread for Manufacturers
While avoidance of knots is a most important element in all yarn-
making, it is absolutely essential in the production of such things as
sewing and shoe thread, and it has been one of the successes of the
Whitman group of mills to reduce the trouble to a diminishing point.
By their general system which guards against imperfections in all
stages of yarn-making, and by special methods and machinery for
handling such imperfections as do occur, these mills have reached
the point where they are putting out the greatest lengths in the United
States of these products without a knot.

TIRE FABRIC YARNS

Endurance and service obtained from automobile tires depend to
a large extent on the character of the cotton fabric or the cotton cord
on which the tire is built up. A close knowledge of the conditions

Cotton Yarn on Spool Cotton Yarn Put-up in Ball Warp, Nonquitt Spinning Company

[75]

which cotton yarn must encounter when it is part of the tire, is a
necessary element in making the right yarn.

Since the earhest use of the pneumatic tire for bicycle purposes
the cotton mills of the group have specialized in this field, and have
thus been singularly well equipped to meet the accentuating demand
for quality that has developed under the intense competition between
tire manufacturers.

In this trade, breaking strength has heretofore been practically
the sole test for determination of quality. As in the weaving problem,
but more emphatically so, this test is insufficient. The necessity is
not only breaking strength, but resiliency and elasticity. The fabric
in a tire must have more than the mere strength that resists tearing
apart. It must be capable of bearing the bending or folding strains
and resisting the abrasion that come on cloth used in tires.

Elimination of knots, bunches, etc., is considered one of the esseu'-
tials in the mill brands of these yarns, and a system carefully maintained
to that end has succeeded in diminishing them to a decidedly small
point. Such imperfections as occur in cord tire yarn are cut out and
spliced under careful method, thus assuring a tire yarn without knots.

Facility for turning out large quantities quickly is an important
feature which will speak for itself to big users and dealers who are con-
fronted so often by emergencies that demand immediate delivery of
quantities far too great for ordinary mills to provide. The system under
which these mills co-operate makes it possible to meet such situations.

Millions of dollars are being spent to advertise the various makes
of automobile tires. The advertising is based on just one point —
Quality. Manufacturers of tire fabric cannot afford to discount this
selling value by taking chances with poor yarn.

The Whitman organization is in position to supply tire yarns in
the single on beams and tubes for the manufacture of tire cloth, and
twisted into plies suitable for the various cord tire requirements.

KNOTS

Broken threads are by no means the only or the chief cause of
knots in cotton yarn. Countless big and little imperfections that occur
during all stages of a spinning process not sharply controlled, all
have to be cut out, and thus force knots on slovenly operators. Oil
spots due to dirty or badly arranged machinery, unevenness due to
poor spinning and to lack of continuous shop-tests, insufficient card-
ing or combing, etc., all produce these defects which must be removed
by the crude method of cutting out.

[76]

There is one way to avoid it, and that is to prevent imperfections.
It can be done only by a mill-system that is organized for the purpose
from "the ground up." Scrupulous cleanliness, properly arranged
and tended machinery and a reliable working force are all essential
to success.

Having reduced the necessity for knots to a minimum, it is neces-
sary to have a uniform and rigidly enforced system for tying knots
that cannot be avoided. This part of the operation of yarn-mills is a
quite difficult one, for the workers who attend to it are confronted with
the fact that the best form of knot is the hardest to tie.

The knot most easily and quickly tied is the spoolers' knot but this
is usually the least desirable knot for almost any industry that works
yarn up into fabric. No matter how well it is tied, it makes a "bunch"
that lies at right angles to the yarn and, therefore, is least likely to slip
smoothly through the eyes of needles. In the finer counts this fact often
is almost negligible, but in coarser counts it is of great importance.

The Manomet Mills, the Nonquitt Spinning Company and the
Acadia Mills long ago instituted a system of education in knot-tying,

Various Forms of Put-ups of Cotton Yarns. Spinning Bobbins and Cops

[77]

and a regular part of the established operating costs goes to super-
vision in this field and to teaching workers exactly what knots to tie
and how to tie them.

No knots whatever are permitted in yarns made for uses where
absence of knots is important. In all these, splicing has long been
the only method. Wherever knots are allowed, the constant effort
is to tie none but weavers' knots, because these are so made that the
tied ends lie parallel to the course of the yarn when it is in use for
knitting and weaving.

By means of special machinery, such threads as shoe threads in
heavy plies and other similarly heavy yarns can be made in extra-
ordinary lengths without any knots whatever. The same is true of
tire yarns.

Some of the trouble caused by knots (such as breaking needles)
is plain enough to the user. More of the trouble is insidious.
Imperceptible in detail, in its sum it makes a bad "drag" on a
fabric-producing plant. To eliminate imperfections, and hence
knots, is one of the chief characteristics of this group of mills. It is
one of the advantages obtained by the consumer who buys Whitman
quality.

MULE-SPUN COTTON YARNS

Because mule-spinning is more expensive than frame-spinning, it is
not a tempting branch ot cotton yarn production to yarn-makers who
base their operation on low cost of manufacture pure and simple. As a
matter of fact, extensive mule-spinning can be afforded only by mills
whose reputation for high-grade products gives them a safe position.

It is a matter of years and of expensive effort to gain a reputation
that shall guarantee enough steady business to support a mule-spinning
equipment of any magnitude. For this reason an astonishingly small
number of mills in America are able today to furnish mule-spun
cotton knitting yarns of high grade in any notable quantity or in
quick order.

The Manomet Mills have been able to so develop this important
form of yarn manufacture that they have the largest output of mule-
spun cotton yarns for sale in the United States.

The scope added by this large equipment for mule-spinning places
them in position to fill the requirements of any maker of any grade
of fabric. The excellent quality of the frame-spun yarns guarantees
a maximum of the elasticity, softness and appearance needed in cotton
textiles of any quality, while the mule-spun yarns add the final value
which is wanted in highly priced material.

[78]

fiZi

iManomet Mills

New Bedford, Mass.

MANOMET MILLS

TRADE Y MARK
REC-US-PAT-OFT-

mi -0}

MANOMET MILLS

New Bedford, Mass.

Capilal Stock $8,000,000

OFFICERS

President : WiLLiAM Whitman Boston, Mass.

Treasurer: Arnold C. Gardner New Bedforcl, Mass.

Ageni: Jksse A. Knight New Bedforfl, Mass.

Clerk: J. Earle Parker Boston, Mass.

DIRECTORS

Henry W. Buss Boston, Mass.

Arthur T. Bradlee Boston, Mass.

Arnold C. Gardner New Bedford, Mass.

Franklin W. Hobbs Boston, Mass.

George E. Kunhardt Lawrence, Mass.

JosiAH M. Lasell Whitinsville, Mass.

Charles W. Leonard. . . Boston, Mass.

E. Kent Swift Whitinsville, Mass.

William Whitman Boston, Mass.

SELLING AGENTS

William Whitman Company, Inc. Offices: 78 Chauncy Street,
Boston, Mass.; 25 Madison Avenue, New York, N. Y.; 300
Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa.; Cimtinenta! and Com-
mercial Bank Building, Chicago, 111.

Picker Rod.m. Manomf.t Mills. New Bedford

MANOMET MILLS

NEW BEDFORD, MASS.

The Manomet Mills manufacture Combed Cotton \arns in the
heavier and medium counts — that is, from number 4 to number 30 —
in the single and in the ply.

In these combed yarns, which they are able to offer either mule-
spun or frame-spun as may be desired, they make a specialty of yarns:
For the better class of knitted goods, both hosiery and underwear;
for the webbing, thread and embroidery trades; and for every class
of hea^7 count woven products, including specialties for silk goods
weavers.

The mills use and are able to offer these yarns made from American,
Egyptian and Sakellarides Egyptian cotton.

They are in a position to supply all the yarns gassed if desired.

[83]

Man(imi:t Mi:
No. 3

Manomet Mills

Nos. 1 AND 2

Manomet Mills
No. 4

\^"Mu MiiLs. Ntw Ui.oboKi). Mass. The largest single cotton-yarn prodicini. plant in the world. Its repitation for evi ipmint, .method and sue HA^ drawn visiting experts from all the cotton-ma.\i;factiking nj

NoNQUiTT Spinning Company

New Bedford, Mass.

NONQUITT SPINNING COMPANY

x'^"^^

RLCUSPAT OfT

Q^'

'(yr

m. ^ — m

NONQUITT SPINNING COMPANY

New Bedford, Mass.

Capital Stock ..$4,800,000

OFFICERS

President : William Whitman Boston, Mass.

Treasurer: LEONARD C. Lapham New Bedford, Mass.

Agent: Fred L. Heyes New Bedford, Mass.

Clerk: J. Earle Parker Boston, Mass.

DIRECTORS

Henry W. Bliss Boston, Mass.

Arthur T. Bradlee Boston, Mass.

George E. Kunhardt Lawrence, Mass.

Leonard C. Lapham New Bedford, Mass.

Josiah M. Lasell Whitinsville, Mass.

Charles W. Leonard Boston, Mass.

E. Kent Swift. Whitinsville, Mass.

William Whitman, Jr Boston, Mass.

William Whitman Boston, Mass.

SELLING AGENTS

NONQUITT SPINNING COMPANY

NEW BEDFORD, MASS.

The Nonquitt Spinning Company manufactures Combed Cotton
Yarns in the finer counts — that is, beginning at number 30 and
running as fine as number 100 — both in the single and in the ply.

The yarns of this mill are frame-spun. The machinery is especially
arranged to produce a grade of yarn higher than the ordinary yarns
on the market, meeting the needs of manufacturers of the better
grades of light underwear and hosiery, silks, plushes and woven goods
of all characters, where quality of material and manufacture are the
essentials of good product. In other words, the yarns of this mill
supply those trades, both in knitting and weaving, to which superior
yarns are necessities.

All the Nonquitt Spinning Company yarns can be supplied gassed
if desired.

[89]

The NoNQLin Spi.nmnc Company

A^ K\ri:ii(.i.N(.\ lie

I III. \1 \\n\ll;T Mil I, v. I 1 I'K M- III \l.l, I.MI Kl.l. Ml mil IMS IN nil;

William Whitmaiv ciioin" ok mills

[90]

Acadia Mills

Lawrknce, Mass.

TRADE tlARKlVRECISTEREB

f}^

'fsr-i

View of Acadia Mills

[92]

ACADIA MILLS

Lawrence, Mass.

Capital Stock $3,000,000

OFFICERS

President: Willia:\i Whitman Boston, Mass.

Treasurer: Ernest N. Hood Boston, Mass.

Agent: William A. Pedler Lawrence, Mass.

Clerk: F. C. CHAMBERLAIN Boston, Mass.

DIRECTORS

Arthur T. Bradlee Boston, Mass.

Franklin W. Hobbs Boston, Mass.

Ernest N. Hood Boston, Mass.

Charles W. Leonard Boston, Mass.

Malcolm D. Whitman New York, N. Y.

William Whitman, Jr Boston, Mass.

William Whitman Boston, Mass.

SELLING AGENTS

William Whitjian Company, Inc. Offices: 78 Chauncy Street,
Boston, Mass.; 25 Madison Avenue, New York, N. Y.; 300
Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa.; Continental and Com-
mercial Bank Building, Chicago, 111.

Ca4 '$^55

ill

Hli

.\cM)iA Mills, Lahulmil. MA^^.

.VU GASSES YARNS FOR ALL PURPOSES TO

Warp Balling in the Acadia Mills. These mills have especially large and perfected
installations for this plrpose

[96]

ACADIA MILLS

LAWRENCE, MASS.

The Acadia Mills manufacture Combed Cotton Yarns in all counts
from number 3 to number 100.

The entire product of these mills consists of Processed Yarn —
that is, yarn carried beyond its natural condition through the processes
of mercerizing, bleaching or dyeing. The yarns can be supplied both
gassed and ungassed.

While making a specialty of these yarns for the knitting and em-
broidering trades, they are in position also to supply them wherever
demanded by the weaving trade, and put the yarn up in forms suit-
able for any demand of such trade.

PROCESSED COTTON YARNS

Processed Cotton Yarn is yarn that, after it comes from the
spinning mill in the natural color known as "in the gray," has been
subjected to mercerizing, bleaching or dyeing. It may be put through
only one ot these processes, or all, or any in combination. Gassing
is also done in connection with processing.

The Acadia Mills, built for processing, have developed all the
processes so uniformly that each individual process profits from ex-
perience with the rest. The mercerizing establishment must give
the dyeing establishment of the mills perfect satisfaction, and as a
result the outside converter who buys undyed mercerized Acadia
yarns is assured of a product that will develop evenness and beauty
in his dyeing vats.

The gray yarns processed by the Acadia Mills are spun by them
or are products of the Whitman Company group, made under the same
rules of manufacture. They are all of special quality for mercerizing,
and thus all the Acadia processed yarns, even if unmercerized, have
higher quality than ordinary yarn.

The twist used by the Acadia Mills is a particular twist adopted after
long experiment for gaining the maximum of luster and brilliancy.

The importance of eliminating knots, slubs, and other imperfections
from these yarns which are used in the more expensive manufactures,
has led to an exceptional development of machinery and organization
for this one purpose alone. In addition to numerous automatic
devices for catching even tiny flaws, a large force of workers is
maintained solely for watchfulness and examination. Besides reducing

[97]

the breakage of needles, these refinements enable the user to produce
uniformly good product, free from seconds.

After a yarn has passed the watchers who supervise the processes,
a re-examination is made of the yarn in the warp, and again as it
goes on bobbins and cones. When finally assembled for shipment,
each put-up is taken up separately and scrutinized in the ultimate
examining rooms.

Such few knots in ply yarns as cannot be avoided are always
weavers' knots even in knitting yarns, and Acadia knitting yarns
have long been distinguished for their uninterruptedly smooth maxi-
mum lengths.

Elasticity in Acadia mercerized thread yarn, due to the Acadia
twist, gives it unusually favorable running qualities. It is said to
represent a silk twist more nearly than any thread yarn on the market,
and it is of maximum strength.

The mercerizers, both for skein and warp mercerizing, and all the

finishing machinery, are of the latest construction and fitted in all

possible ways with special appliances to maintain the standard of

Acadia quality.

* ^ MERCERIZING

The industrial art of mercerizing cotton yarn has special signi-
ficance in relation to the William Whitman Company, because its
President and others bore the brunt of the early fight for universal
American enjoyment of the process, when its use involved a long and
costly legal battle. After the legal victory was won, there ensued
many labors to perfect the technical methods; and in these, again,
the organization did work that it is satisfactory to recall.

When the process had been made available to all, it happened
most unfortunately that short-sighted men, not realizing the true
values of mercerizing, mis-used it to give inferior cottons a spurious
selling quality. As is well known now, mercerizing develops its full
richness and its other beneficial qualities only when it is applied
to cotton yarns spun from carefully selected and prepared high-grade,
long staple cotton. Applied to cheap cotton, the luster is inferior.
This early bad practice brought disrepute on a process which, in fact,
is one of the very valuable contributions to human service.

The William Whitman Company organizations from the beginning
worked stubbornly to develop the true importance of mercerizing,
which is not only in producing a beautiful silk-luster, but also in
decidedly improving cotton in roundness and strength, in working
qualities and in adaptabilitv to fine dveing.

[98]

Acadia Mills Warp and Gassing Room. An unusual number of gassing outfits is used in these

processiisc mills. and many various and ingenious methods of gassing are employed.

Entire warps are gassed at one operation, and the mills have developed

particular styles of gassing machines

Today the mills in this organization are the largest producers in
the world of Mercerized Cotton Yarns and of Gray Cotton Yarns for
Mercerizing.

MERCERIZED COTTON YARNS

The intimate relation of the organization to mercerizing since its
inception in America, naturally suggests particular efficiency in the
Acadia Mills which were constructed specifically for mercerizing and
otherwise processing cotton yarns.

In principle, the process of mercerizing is so simple that it can be
described in twelve words: "Subjecting tightly stretched cotton yarn
or fabric to a caustic soda bath." In practice there are many details
and refinements, and some of these demand the most delicate per-
ception if the yarn is to emerge successfully treated. Variations in
the yarns, variations in the materials of which the yarns are made,
variations of twist in their manufacture, together with the varying
natures of the chemicals used and the varying temperatures of air
and water when they are used, combine to create a menace whose
omen is permanent over a mercerizing mill; the menace of uneven-
ness. This unevenness. which is a continual danger-point in the

[99]

Acadia .Mills Qlilli.m, MACHiNtiii

process, may be so distributed over the yarn that it does not at all
make itself noticed to the buyer. But when the user attempts to
work such yarn up, the many variations (not only in luster but in
form) announce themselves sharply.

The dyer in particular suffers from unevenly mercerized yarn,
for mercerizing gives cotton yarn such an affinity for dye that the
best mercerized parts take on much deeper shades than the rest,
thus causing mottled dyeing, or color that seems to run in streaks,
etc. It may vary in degree, but it is bound to occur with any yarn
that has not been treated with absolute uniformity.

In apparatus and in human organization, the Acadia Mills have
all resources for getting uniform results. Of the mechanical equip-
ments some are unique, and practically all have refinements. Among
the workers, both in the spinning and processing departments, are
many who have been with the mills since they were built. The en-
tire force is one of unusual character and skill.

Besides the mills' own chemical laboratories and testing rooms,
they have full benefit of the chemical laboratory of the Arlington
Mills which is one of the best equipped for this purjjose in the
United States.

[100]

In point of magnitude the Acadia Mills is the largest mercerized
yarn producing establishment in the western hemisphere.

BLEACHED COTTON YARNS

The mere process of bleaching is common and simple. There
are no secrets in it. But there are few industries whose results vary
so much. The chief factors in this are the varying degrees of care
and knowledge in the bleacheries.

Water plays an important part. This most common liquid has
cibsolutely no uniformity. Every source produces a different kind.
A water that to tiie naked eye or even to ordinary tests presents itself
as perfectly pure, will be shown under exhaustive chemical tests to
contain ingredients, often numerous, that make it harmful for a
delicate process like bleaching. Even a given supply of water from
a single source will vary from day to day, according to various con-
ditions. An apparently bright, clear water may still hold in invisible
solution enough earthy matter to make a decided shade in the bleached
product.

A View of One of the Rooms in which Warp Mercerizing is Done

[101]

The Acadia Mills have elaborate installations to protect this primary
element of the bleaching process. The water that enters the estab-
lishment has to pass through a series of filtration beds, and to make
assurance doubly sure there is a double filtration, two methods being
in use.

A laboratory system is devoted entirely to testing this filtered
water, to the end that throughout the working day it shall be im-
possible for any to pass into the processes unless it is chemically
pure for its purpose. Special color tests are used to make sure that
it is completely de-colorized. This is a fundamental part of the work
of achieving a pure white finish on the bleach.

Similar care is expended on all other liquids, etc., that are factors
in the process. "Rule of thumb" methods for ascertaining their
quality do not exist in any departments. The chemist and his
laboratory methods govern all.

Product is watched in the same manner during its entire passage
through the bleach. Color-testing appliances of the latest types
show up every possible modification of white and thus enable the
mills to catch even the slightest shade of variance from the mill

Special Attention is Paid to Dyeing in the Acadia Mills. A Glimpse of a Dye House

[102]

standards which serve for comparison in every test. Temperatures,
time, methods of drying, etc., are all controlled by equally scientific
methods.

DYED COTTON YARNS

Maintenance of perfect equality of shade is of immense importance
to users of dyed yarns. It is not enough that any one shipment shall
run uniform throughout. The manufacturer of any product made
from dyed yarns must have the assurance that he can depend on the
same shade whenever he wants it, year after year if necessary.

The Acadia Mills are organized with particular care for this service,
and have every facility for achieving uniformity, from the handling
of the dye to the final examination of the dyed yarn in the put-up.

Every result in this mill must match up with the mill standards
which are absolute perfect specimens of dyed yarns preserved under
lock and key in light and dust-proof cabinets. The color experts
make their comparative examinations in specially equipped rooms
under vapor color-matching lamps which throw the most trifling
variations of shade into vivid and startling contrast.

The necessity for such a circumstantial and rigorous daily system
will be understood when it is remembered that various skeins of the
same kind of cotton yarn, dyed in one vat, may all vary in shade
if there has been the least difference in manipulation. One single
skein may come out with varying shades.

These defects in dye may be due to any one of scores of the
manipulations demanded in the process. It may be that inequality
in taking dye is due to inequality in spinning. It may be due to
various handlings of the yarn either before or after the actual dyeing.
It may be caused by inequalities in the dye itself, to condition of the
liquid, etc. Only a mill designed and equipped for uniformity can
combat all these dangers successfully.

Good dyes, specialized knowledge and modern equipment are de-
manded, of course, and it is hardly necessary to say that the Acadia
Mills possess these. It is the way good equipment is utilized that
determines the quality of Acadia Dyed Cotton Yarns.

[103]

The Kind of Cotton Used in the Acadia Mills
No. 1, Raw Cotton ; No. 2, Card Sliver

[ 104]

Acadia Mills Cotton
No. 3, Combed Skein; No. 4, Roving Skein

[105]

Acadia Mills Put-ups

No. 5, Spinning Bobbin; No. 6, Twisted Bobbin; No. 7, Quiller Bobbin; No. 8, Gassed and
Mercerized Yams on a Cone; No. 9, Gassed, Mercerized and Bleached Yarns on a Cone; No. 10,
Gassed, Mercerized and Colored Yarns on a Cone.

[ 106 ]

GRADES AND CLASSIFIED LISTS

COTTON YARNS

made by

THE MANOMET MILLS

THE NONQUITT SPINNING COMPANY

THE ACADIA MILLS

Part 1. Description of Grades by Mill brands.

Part 2. Classified list showing Grades, Counts and Put-ups
for Knitting, Weaving, Webbing and Tire Trades

M -e^^

MANOMET MILLS

DESCRIPTION OF GRADES

BB Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton. Mule-spun.
In Nos. 4 to 30 in single and ply, put up on cops, cones, tubes and
in skeins.

CC Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton (same grade
as BB) . Frame-spun. In Nos. 4 to 30 in single and ply, put up on
cones, tubes, skeins, ball-warps and section beams.

TE Grade: Made from Combed Egyptian Cotton. Frame-spun.
In Nos. 4 to 30 in single and ply, put up on cones, tubes, skeins,
ball-warps and section beams.

SS Grade: Made from Combed Sakellarides Cotton. Frame-spun.
In Nos. 4 to 30 in single and ply, put up on cones, tubes, skeins,
ball-warps and section beams.

PC Grade: Made from specially cleaned and selected Combed
American Cotton for the manufacture of pirn cops, to be used in
filling for the silk trade. Mule-spun. In Nos. 10 to 30 in single,
on through cop tubes.

Any and all of these mills make special counts, plies, and put-ups on request when-
ever there is business sufficient to warrant it, and ivill quote special prices.

A Card Room in the Manomet Mills. All cards are driven from shafting placed under the

FLOOR, thus eliminating OVERHEAD DRIVES, WITH THEIR DANGER OF DRIPPING OIL, DUST, LINT, ETC.

[108]

MANOMET MILLS

FOR TIRE PURPOSES

CC Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton. Frame-spun.
Counts 20—1, 22^-1. Delivered on tubes or section beams.

DD Grade : Made from Combed American Cotton but longer staple
than CC Frame-spun. Counts 20-1, 22^-1. Delivered on tubes
or section beams.

TE Grade: Made from Combed Egyptian Cotton. Frame-spun.
Counts 20—1, 22%— 1. Delivered on tubes or section beams.

PE Grade: Made from Combed Peruvian Egyptian Cotton. Frame-
spun. Counts 20—1, 22%^-l. Delivered on tubes or section beams.

SS Grade: Made from Combed Sakellarides Cotton. Frame-spun.
Counts 20—1, 22%— 1. Delivered on tubes or section beams.

TK Grade: Made from Carded Egyptian Cotton. Frame-spun.
Counts 20-1, 22%— 1. Delivered on tubes or section beams.

PK Grade: Made from Carded Peruvian Egyptian Cotton. Frame-
spun. Counts 20—1, 22%-l. Delivered on tubes or section beams.

Any and all of these mills make special counts, plies, and put-ups on request when-
ever there is business sufficient to u arrant it, and will quote special prices.

All the iarns .xnni; by this mill are combed yarns. To ensire the best possible quality

MATERIAL FOR THE COMBS THE PREVIOUS CARDING IS UNUSUALLY EXHAUSTIVE. ThE MaNOMET

Mills combing plant is the largest in the United States, and is believed to
be the largest in the world, so far as 01 r latest figures go

[109]

NONQUITT SPINNING COMPANY

DESCRIPTION OF GRADES

SA Grade: Made from staple, selected, Combed American Cotton.
Frame-spun. In Nos. 26 to 40 in single and ply, put up on cones,
tubes, skeins, ball-warps and section beams.

SAE Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton of longer
staple than the 5^. Frame-spun. In Nos. 35 to 60 in single and ply,
put up on cones, tubes, skeins, ball-warps and section beams.

A Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton of longer staple
than the SAE. Frame-spun. In Nos. 50 to 70 in single and ply,
put up on cones, tubes, skeins, ball-warps and section beams.

AX Grade : Made from Combed American Cotton of longer staple
than the y4. Frame-spun. In Nos. 60 to 80 in single and ply, put up
on cones, tubes, skeins, ball-warps and section beams. For yarns of
super quality.

EE Grade: Made from Combed Egyptian Cotton of long staple.
Frame-spun. In Nos. 30 to 60 in single and ply, put up on cones,
tubes, skeins, ball-warps and section beams.

TYR Grade: Made from Combed Sakellarides Cotton. Frame-
spun. In Nos. 30 to 100 in single and ply, put up on cones, tubes,
skeins, ball-warps and section beams. Used for yarns where strength
or very fine count is required.

Any and all of these mills make special counts, plies, and put-ups on request, when-
ever there is business sufficient to warrant it, and ivill quote special prices.

[110]

ACADIA MILLS

MERCERIZED YARNS

BM Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton. Frame-spun.
In Nos. 3 to 26 in ply. Mercerized in natural color and in bleached
or dyed, gassed or ungassed. Put up on cones, tubes, skeins and
ball-warps.

XM Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton, longer in
staple than the BM. Frame-spun. In Nos. 26 to 40 in ply. Mercer-
ized, in natural color and in bleached or dyed, gassed or ungassed.
Put up on cones, tubes, skeins and ball-warps. Also in No. 30 in
single. Mercerized, in natural color and bleached or dyed, on cones.

AM Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton, longer in
staple than the XM. Frame-spun. In Nos. 10 to 70 in ply. Mer-
cerized, in natural color and in bleached or dyed, gassed or ungassed.
Put up on cones, tubes, skeins and ball-warps. Also in Nos. 40, 50
and 60 in single. Mercerized, in natural color and bleached or dyed,
on cones.

XL Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton of very long
staple, specially selected. Frame-spun. In counts, Nos. 70 and 80
in ply. Mercerized, in natural color and in bleached or dyed, gassed
or ungassed. Put up on cones, tubes, skeins and ball-warps. Also
in Nos. 70 and 80 single. Mercerized, in natural color and bleached
or dyed, on cones.

XY Grade: Made from the Combed Sakellarides Cotton. Frame-
spun. In Nos. 10 to 80 in ply. Mercerized, in natural color and in
bleached or dyed, gassed or ungassed. Put up on cones, tubes, skeins
and ball-warps. Also in Nos. 70 and 80 single. Mercerized, in
natural color and bleached or dyed, on cones.

Any and all of these mills make special counts, plies, and put-ups on request, tvhen-
ever there is business sufficient to u arrant it. and will quote special prices.

[Ill]

ACADIA MILLS

BLEACHED YARNS

BM Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton. Frame-spun.
In Nos. 10 to 24 in single and to No. 26 in ply. Bleached or dyed,
gassed or ungassed. Put up on cones, tubes, skeins and ball-warps.

CP Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton of longer staple
than the BM. Frame-spun. In Nos. 25 to 30 in single, and to No. 40
in ply. Bleached or dyed, gassed or ungassed. Put up on cones, tubes,
skeins and ball-warps.

CP Special Grade: Made from Combed American Cotton of
longer staple than the CP. Frame-spun. In Nos. 32 to 60 in single
and ply. Bleached or dyed, gassed or ungassed. Put up on cones,
tubes, skeins and ball-warps.

XP Grade : Made from Combed American Cotton of longer staple
than CP Special. Frame-spun. In Nos. 70 and 80 in single and ply.
Bleached or dyed, gassed or ungassed. Put up on cones, tubes, skeins
and ball-warps.

Any and all of these mills make special counts, plies, and put-ups on request, when-
ever there is business sufficient to ivarrant it, and ivill quote special prices.

[112]

THREAD YARNS

MANOMET MILLS

NONQUITT SPINNING COMPANY

ACADIA MILLS

While the above mills do not make a business of manufacturing the
full line of thread yarns, they each of them do make a large quantity of
special thread yarns in the single, two, three and four-ply, regular and
reverse twist, for the shoe trade and for the manufacturing trade, among
which are the following:

Manomet Mills

SS Grade

8-V2/I regular twist
181/2/1 and 131/2/2 regular twist

NoNQuiTT Spinning Company

A Grade and TYR Grade

30/3 and 30/4 reverse twist
36/3 and 36/4 reverse twist
40/3 and 40/4 reverse twist
50/3 and 50/4 reverse twist
60/3 and 60/4 reverse twist

Acadia Mills

AM Grade

36/2 and 36/3 mercerized and gassed and
mercerized, reverse twist

XY Grade

40/2 and 40 3 mercerized and gassed and
mercerized, reverse twist

The mills will be glad to consider the manufacture of any special-
ties in thread yarns wherever the business is sufficient to warrant.

[113]

Gathering the Cotton Crop

[114]

M, 'M

Charts of Combed Cotton
Yarns

The following charts show the Combed Cotton
Yarns made regularly by the Manomet Mills,
New Bedford, Mass.; the Nonquitt Spinning
Company, New Bedford, Mass. ; and the Acadia
Mills, Lawrence, Mass. ; in the grades
described on the preceding pages

The Cotton Grading Room of the Manomet Mills. Light, color, atmosphere, and all

OTHER conditions IN THIS BOOM ARE PROBABLY THE BEST EXISTING IN THE UnITED

States for the work of grading and selecting cotton

View of Roving Room, Manomet Mills. This shows only a part of the great space

[116]

SPECIAL PACKING CASES

USED BY

MANOMET MILLS

COP CASES

Size of Cops

Gross Weight of Case

Inside Measurements

Inches

Pounds

Inches

11?^ Cops

370

X21M,

x31

1% Cops

452

X 241/5,

X 331/0

% Pin Cops

476

X 241/,

X 331/2

1% Cops

320

311/4

x24

x31i/i

% Pin Cops

390

x32

x31

2 Pin Cops

480

381/2

X 371/2

X 281/2

CONE CASES

Size of Cone Number of Cones
Inches in Case

Gross Weight of Case
Pounds

Inside Measurements
Inches

6I/2 144
6I/2 168
eVa 1 168

400
510
462

37 X 263/i X 33
45 X 341/2 X 231^
423^ X 341/2 X 231/4

TUBE CASES

Size of Tube

Number of Tubes

Gross Weight of Case

Inside Measurements

Inches

in Case

Pounds

Inches

200

361

3234 X 32 X 191/2

41/1

175

380

3234 X 32 X 191/9

41/2

165

350

323,4 X 32 X 191/0

43/4

140

350

323/4 X 32 X 191/0

43/4

216

400

411/, X 26i/o X 261/,

4y4

252

390

411/0 X 26I/2 X 26I/2

CASES FOR SKEINS

Gross Weight of Case
Pounds

Inside Measurements
Inches

Skeins
Skeins
Skeins

390
500
300

45 X 341/2 X 2314
45 X 341/2 X 2314
323,4 X 32 X 191/2

Special Packing for Export
[121]

Mil I.

Siniil.
Knitting

Acucli.t
Acmli.1

Acndin

Anxlln
Ancli.i

.■\uy ,lv!.iml ,

w CdVlHKIi CoriON ^AHNS FOR KNITTING, /n (/»• (;r,

410 30

■I 10 30

410 30

Manomel

410 30

4 10 30

410 30

Manomel

10 10 30

PC
SA

Maiiomct

kilo 40

2610 10

2610 40

Nonquitt

35l<> 60

35 lo 60

3510 60

35 lo 60

35 10 60

SAE

Nonquitl

50 10 70

50 lo 70

5010 70

NonquiU

iillti. }1<|

(.nil. 80

6010 80

60 10 80

6010 80

Noiiquilt

III,,, 1,1,

l,,,„ 1,,,

llllo (III

llllo 60

30 lo 60

30 10 60

30 lo 60

Nonquitt

.1(11., IIHI

Kiln mil

:iiii.. Ill"

III lo 100

3D 10 100

30 10 100

3O10IOO

3010 100

TYR

Nonquilt

Singlo iJinulo i Two-ply

Bleached or l)laac)ic<l ur Blcdcliod or
I))oJ on Cono 1 Dyci) in Skein* , Dyo<l on Cone*

10 to 24 I 10 I

25 to 30

32 to 60 32 to 60

.... 70 and 80

|ily yiirnn ciiii lie 9up|i]icc] f^iissri! if ilc^

PROCESSED

T«o.|.I,
Dlescliedur
Drcd in Skein:

3 10 26 3 to 26

All n( till' 1,1
All llic iiL'tc'iinvl viito> Clin
iiilH and plim inacli

wo-jily yarns can be supplied giiHsed if desired
ns can he su|i|died in bleaelied and ulao in colors, bolh gas«ed and ungasscd
request, bolli in gray and in processed whenever there is business sufhcient to

I any grades and in any desii
Wiltk

■d iml-iip hrsidrs ihrse staple goods shown he
n W'hilmtm Cominmyon order

I he In

Acad

CP Sp.

Acad

XI,

Acad

MANOMET MILLS TIRE YARN

Single on

tS...

Section Benms

Coani.

""■""

Combed

20 and 2234

Combed

20 and 2234

Combed

20 and 22-14

Combed

20 and 22%

Combed

20an.l ^'a,

Carded

20 and 22'- ,

I" joid 2234

Uil Pli(

DLiCrs in

Single Warp

Single W.rp

or Filling

Skein.

Ball Warps

Beiin.

Counls

Countt

Connrj

Cam.

Manomet

4 to 30

Manomet

4 to 30

4 10 30

4 to 30

Manomel

410 30

4 to 30

4lo30

Nonquilt

26 lo 35

26 to 35

NonquiU

SAE

35 10 40

35 to 40

35 10 40

NonquiU

to to 60

40 to 60

« to 60

40 to 60

NonquiU

60 10 80

60 to 80

Nonquitt

30 to 60

Nonquitt

TYR

30 to 80

30 10 80

30 to 80

COMBKD COTl'ON 'lAKNS KOli WE.WIMj, /„ ,/»• Cray

wT™#i , I J'"°f''- . I ™''"°SP'>: J'"°X''. J."!;!"'' I ■■'""J'l' Tm-pi, T»o.pir

W.rpTw,.! I W.rpT»,.t WarpJ,.,! W.rpf«i.t ' So(lT»ut ' SollTtl.t Scll-rt.i.1 SodT.i.l
Tu^e. Skeia. | Ball Warp, Section Bc.nii Tube. Skein. BallVarp. Section B.sni.

Counlt Counit I Coiina Counit Couitu Counit Counu

2610 40 26 to 40 26 lo 40 26 K
35 to 60 351.

60 to 80' 601.

All of the above two-ply

70 50 to 70 501.

60 to 80 601.

[1 be .iiipplied passed if desired

4 to 30

410 30

4lo 30

Manomel

410 30

4 to 30

2610 10

2610 .10

2610 40

35 lo 60

3510 60

35 to 60

SAE

50 to 70

6010 80

60 to 80

30 to 60

30 lo 60

,30 10 60

30 to 60

30lol00

3010 100

30 to 100

3O10IOO

TYR

Nonquilt

Coum

Ball Warp.
Couars

10 to 24
25 to 30
32 10 60

aale Two-ply

iclicd Uleacncd

Oyed or Dyed
n Beam. Tube.

iHO-ply Iwo-ply Iwo-L

DIcaclicd I Blesclied , Blcacli

or Dyed ' Or Dyed I orDy.

Skeins ' Ball Warp. SeclionI!

-Mcrtcriied , Mereoriicd ! Mercerised Mercerised
on In I - In I on

Tubes I Skeins I Ball Warp. 'Section Beam.

Coai

Counu : Counu I Counrj

Counls

10to24 10 to 26 i 10 to 26
25 10 30 I 25 to '» 25 10 40
32 10 60 32 to 60 32 to 60

10 to 26
25 to m
32 to 60
70 and 80

10 lo 26 3 to 26 I 3 lo 26 : 3 lo 26 I 3 lo 26

25 lo 40 : . . . .

32 to 60 I ... I

70 and 80

.1 26 to 40 ! 26 lo 40 I 26 lo 40 : 26 to .10

40 to 70 MO to 70 I . 10 to 70 , 40 to 70

. . . 70 and 80 70 and 80 70 and 80 70 ami Ull

. - . 10 10 100 10 to 100 10 to mil 10 to mil

All of the above two-ply y.iLn- . n, li. -U14.I1..
led yarns can be supplied in bleached ami also ii
Special counls and plies made on request, bolh in gray and in processed whenever there is busineas sullicient to wnrr.mt it

Any desired rounts in any grades and in any desired put-up besides these staple goods shown here, ran lie jiiriiished by the
If'illinrn Whitman Company on order

A,. alia
Acatlia

Acadia
Acadia

Acadia
A.ndia

1117 1

[118]

[119]

SPECIAL PACKING CASES

USED BY

NONQUITT SPINNING COMPANY

CONE CASES

Gross Weight of Case
Pounds

Inside Measurements
Inches

Single Cones Universal
Single Cones Camless
Ply Cones

530
470
500

381/, X 371/0 X 271/2
381/, X 371/0 X 271/0
4034^ X 361/2 X 271/2

TUBE CASES

Gross Weight of Case
Pounds

Inside Measurements
Inches

Single Tubes
Ply Tubes

430
500

351/2 X 331/, X 271/2

351/2x331/2x271/2

SKEIN CASES

Gross Weight of Case
Pounds

Inside Measurements
Inches

Ordinary Skeins
Thread Yarn Skeins

500
330

403/4 X 361/, X 271/0
32 x26 "x 241/2

Special Packing for Export

[122]

SPECIAL PACKING CASES

USED BY

ACADIA MILLS

CONE CASES

Description of Yarn

Approximate Gross Weight of

Case

Pounds

Inside Measurements
Inches

Single Bleached 1

or [

Single Mercerized J

Two-ply Mercerized

350
400
450
500

42 X 28 X 26
44 X 30 X 26
42 X 28 X 26
44 X 30 X 26

SKEIN CASES

Description of Yarn

Approximate Gross Weight of j^^.^^ Measurements
Pounds ' I-h- ■

All Descriptions

500
600

42 X 28 X 26
44 X 30 X 26

Engine Room in the Nonquitt Spinning Company Mills, New Bedford, Mass.

[123]

i^r

Department

Carded Cotton Yarn

l«-

CARDED COTTON YARNS DEPARTMENT

of the
William Whitman Company, Inc.

covering the general american market
as traders in carded cotton yarns

In this division of their business the Wilham Whitman Company
act as commission merchants for a number of mills for whom they are
exclusive selling agents. They also act as general market buyers
and sellers of the product of many other mills so that through this
department and their wide connections they are able to offer a line
of carded yarns of southern and northern manufacture covering
practically all grades and for all purposes.

In the yarn which they strictly sell on commission their whole aim
is, as in their combed yarn department, to have the mills manufacture
a yarn which shall be of the very best of its class. On the yarns from
spinners with whom they act as dealers, intimate touch with both the
manufacturing and selling ends of the market is maintained in two
chief ways:

First, through close business and personal connections with some
250 spinning mills, representing a total of more than 3,000,000
spindles.

Second, through similarly close business and personal connections
with the general users of yarn throughout the whole United States.

This makes possible the double service on which the department
is based, a service whose principle is that continuous and profitable
business relations can be retained only when transactions are equally
useful to producer and consumer. The wide field of the company's
business in fabrics of both cotton and wool manufacture gives to
their clients the advantage of a broad-gauged view of the whole textile
market and also enables the company often to put before the spinner
unexpected or uncommon opportunities which otherwise would remain
unknown to him.

To the user, the company can offer the results of their own ex-
perience in the product of the various mills with whom they have
these connections, thus enabling their clients to meet their demands
with the best yarns available for their purpose.

To this same end the company offers to their buyers, when desired,
the results of their testing laboratories and inspection departments,
which are equipped to examine and approve all materials under exact

[127]

atmospheric conditions. Every carded cotton yarn for any purpose
is handled, and can be furnished in counts ranging from as heavy
as No. 4 to as fine as No. 60 both in single and plys. Plys as high as
66-ply can be obtained in some grades.

In quality these yarns run through all the grades from the very
highest grade of American peeler to the lowest grades of cotton or
waste. While they are made mostly in regular standard warp, filling
and knitting twists, yarns in all kinds of special twist can be furnished.

Put-ups cover the whole range, from cones, cops and skeins
(in soft twist) for the knitting trade, to skeins, ball-warps, chain-
warps, section beams, tubes and cones for the weaving and other
trades.

In southern yarns the company delivers three qualities — A, B and C.

A Quality is the highest grade yarn spun for the manufacture of
the highest grade carded goods. This yarn is made out of white
cotton, evenly spun and evenly twisted.

B Quality is also made out of white cotton but is not so exhaustively
carded and, therefore, not so free from specks nor is it as evenly spun.

C Quality is made from off-colored cottons, and, in some cases,
from waste cotton.

[128]

CHARTS OF CARDED
COTTON YARNS

The following charts show the Carded Cotton
Yarns which are handled by William Whitman
Company, Inc. Any desired counts in any
grades and in any desired put-up besides these
shown here can be furnished by William
Whitman Company, Inc., on order

e^* '9;d

-no dK

CARDED COTTO

A GRADE

Cones

Ball
Warps

Chain
Warps

Section
Beams

Cones

4's I ; 4/1 to4plyi

6's i 6/1 to 6 ply

7's I 7/1 to 7 ply

8's I 8/1 to 3 ply 8/1 to 8 ply

lO's llO/l to 5 ply 10/1 to 8 ply

12's 12/1 to 6 ply 12/1 to 6 ply

14's 1 14/1 to 3 ply 14/1 to 4 ply,

16's 1 16/1 to 3 ply 16/1 to 5 ply

20's |20/lto2ply 20/1 toSply

24's 24/1 to 3 ply 24/1 to 3 ply

26's 26/1 to 2 ply 26/1 to 2 ply

30's |30/1 to 3 ply 30/1 to 3 ply

36's 36/2 to 3 ply

40's I 40/1 40/1 to 2 ply

50's 50/1 to 2 ply 50/1 to 2 ply

60's J60/lto2ply,60/lto2ply

4/1 to 4
6/1 to 6
7/1 to 7
8/1 to 8
10/1 to 8
12/1 to 6
14/1 to 4
16/1 to 5
20/1 to 5
24/1 to 3
26/1 to 2
30/1 to 3
36/2 to 3
40/1 to 2
50/1 to 2
60/1 to 2

piyj

ply

ply 8/1 to 3 ply
ply 10/1 to 8 ply
ply 12/1 to 4 ply
ply 14/1 to 3 ply
ply 16/1 to 2 ply
ply 20/1 to 2 ply
ply 24/1 to 2 ply
ply 26/1 to 2 ply
ply 30/1 to 2 ply

ply

ply 40/1 to 2 ply
ply 50/2
plyi60/lto2ply

8/1 to 3 plv
10/1 to 8 ply
12/1 to 4 plv
14/1 to 3 ply
16/1 to 2 ply
20/1 to 2 ply
24/1 to 2 ply
26/1 to 2 ply
30/1 to 2 ply

12/1

'l6/l'
20/1
24/1
26/1
30/1

6/1 to
7/1 to
8/1 to
10/1 to
12/1 to
14/1 to
16/1 to
20/1 to
24/1 to
26/1 to
30/1 to

6 ply 6/

7 ply 7/

4 ply 8/

8 ply 10/
6 ply 12/
3 ply 14/
3 plv 16/

2 ply 20/

3 ply 24/
2 ply 26/
2 ply 30/

40/1 to 2 ply

We sell cable tubes and skeins up to 20's, for tire yarns and fire
Any special counts and plies can be furnishec

SPECIALTIES

Tire Fabric Yarns
Yarns for Electrical Purposes
Yarns for Webbing Manufacturers
Special Packing for Export

[ 130 ]

^VING YARNS

C GRADE

y 4/1 to 4 ply

yi 6/1 to 6 ply
y: 7/1 to 7 ply
y 8/1 to 8 ply
y 10/1 to 8 ply
y 12/1 to 6 ply
y 14/1 to 3 ply
y 16/1 to 4 ply
y 20/1 to 5 ply
y 24/1 to 3 ply
y 26/1 to 2 ply
■ 30/1 to 2 ply

36/2

40/2

8/1 to 4 ply 8/1 to 4 ply

10/1 to 5 ply

12/lto4ply:12/lto4ply 12/1

14/1 to 2 ply 14/1 to 2 ply

16/1 to 2 ply 16/1 to 2 ply 16/1
20/1 to 2 ply 20/1 to 5 ply 20/1

24/1 to 2 ply 24/1 to 2 ply 23/1—24/1
26/1 to 2 ply 26/1 to 2 ply 26/1
30/1 to 2 ply 30/1 to 2 ply 30/1

6/1

7/1

8/1 to 8 ply

10/1 to 8 ply

12/1 to 4 ply

14/1

16/1
20/1 to 2 ply

24/2

26/2

30/2

4/1 to 4 ply

6/1 to 6 ply

7/1 to 7 ply

8/1 to 8 ply

10/1 to 8 ply

12/1 to 4 ply

14/1 to 3 ply

16/1 to 3 ply

20/1 to 2 ply

24/2

26/2

30/2

4/1 to 4 ply
6/1 to 6 ply;

7/1 to 7 ply
o/l to 8 ply
10/1 to 8 ply
12/1 to 4 ply
14/1 to 3 ply
16/1 to 3 ply
20/1 to 2 ply

24/2

26/2

30/2

40/2

4's
6's
7's
B's
lO's
12's
14's
16's
20's
24's
26's
30's
36's
40's
50's
60's

den hose. We sell two-end regular tubes, for electrical trade
jer there is business sufficient to warrant it

CARDED COTTON KNITTING YARNS

A GRADE

B GRADE

C GRADE

Counts

Cones

Skeins

Cones

Skeins

Cones . Skeins Counts

6/1

6/1 6/1 6/1

7/1

7/1 1 7/1 7/1

8/1

8/1 8/1 8/1

9/1

9/1 9/1 9/1

10/1

10/1 10/1 10/1

11/1

Ll/1 11/1 11/1

12/1

12/1 12/1 12/1

14/1

14/1 1 14/1 1 14/1

15/1

15/1 15/1 15/1

16/1

16/1 i 16/1 16/1

18/1

. . ... 18/1

20/1

22/1

; 22/1

24/1

i 24/1

26/1

28/1

30/1

32/1

. . ... 32/1

40/1

50/1

Any special counts can be furnished whenever there is business sufficient to warrant it

[ 131 ]

MARY LOUISE MILLS

COWPENS, S. C.

While the southern yarn business is, as has been stated, done
largely either with mills for which the company act as selling agents
or on the direct method of purchase and resale, there are individual
instances where the William Whitman Company, either through
ownership of the majority of stock or otherwise, control the manage-
ment of the mill and where they can, therefore, put into operation
the same general principles that they have adopted in the northern
<;ombed yarn mills.

Such a mill is the Mary Louise Mills, of Cowpens, S. C. This mill,
situated in the heart of the cotton growing district, specializes on 20-2
carded yarn made from strictly white cotton and put up in either
skeins or warps for the weaving and webbing trade. Here, as in
-all the other mills that the company directly or indirectly manages,
special attention is given, first, to the uniformity and grade of the
-cotton and then to the details of every stage of its manufacture.
This is done to the end that the company may be in a position to
offer to manufacturers of cotton worsteds, plush manufacturers and
other similar trades where good 20-2 carded yarn is essential, a
product which, because of uniformity of color and quality and superi-
ority of spinning and put-up, will assure the user of a standard article
on which he can depend for getting the maximum product and best
fabric obtainable from a carded yarn of that particular number.

Nashawena Mills

New Bedford, Mass.

'f^P.

Nashawena Mills. New Bedford, Mass. The i

SINGLE ESTABLISHMENT OF ITS KIND IN THE WOBLD

Jacquard Looms, Nashavvena Mills

[136]

m M

NASHAWENA MILLS

New Bedford, Mass.

Capital Stock $3,000,000

OFFICERS

Preside/It: William Whitman Boston, Mass.

Treasurer: William B. Gardner New Bedford, Mass.

Agent: John L. Burton New Bedford, Mass.

Clerk: J. Earle Parker Boston, Mass.

DIRECTORS

I. Tlcker Bl RR Boston, Mass.

Livingston Davis Boston, Mass.

Robert H. Gardiner Boston, Mass.

Franklin W. Hobbs Boston, Mass.

William B. Gardner New Bedford, Mass.

George E. Kunhardt Lawrence, Mass.

Robert A. Leeson Boston, Mass.

Charles W. Leonard Boston, Mass.

E. Kent Swift Wliitinsville, Mass.

Malcolm D. Whitman New York, N. Y.

William Whitman Boston, Mass.

SELLING AGENTS

'd^ Qii

NASHAWENA MILLS

New Bedford, Mass.

WILLIAM WHITMAN COMPANY, Inc.

Selling Agents
25 Madison Avenue, New York City

'Tell us what you want, and ive can make it"

ALL WEAVES, PLAIN JACQUARD AND

FANCY WOVEN FABRICS

ALL COTTON, SILK AND COTTON

In the Gray

GRAY GOODS

The term Gray Goods applies generally to fabrics which have not
been bleached, dyed or subjected to any other process after weaving.
They are sold in the form in which they come from the loom.

Certain Gray Goods ( such as sheetings, drills and ducks) frequently
are retailed in their gray or natural state. The Gray Goods marketed
by William Whitman Company, Inc., however, comprise for the most
part only those fabrics which are manufactured especially for con-
verters who have them dyed, bleached or printed before they reach
the consumer.

As sold by the company, they fall into two broad general lines:

Fine Goods and Carded Fabrics

Fine Goods is a term used by the trade to designate fabrics of
quality that are made from all combed cotton yarns or from combed
cotton yarns and silk in combination, the raw material used in their
construction being the better grades of both cotton and silk. They
may be of the utmost simplicity or highly elaborate in texture and
pattern.

Carded Fabrics are the broad range of cloths woven for the most
part from carded cotton yarns spun from the shorter staples of
American cotton. They include such fabrics as print cloths, sheetings
and drills.

FINE GOODS, MADE IN THE GRAY BY THE

NASHAWENA MILLS

New Bedford, Mass.

■ This is probably the largest single cotton mill of its kind in the

world. Like the others of the group, it is self-contained, standing

alone and making its product from beginning to end within itself.

At the same time it shares in the resourcefulness of the entire group,

thus commanding facilities for any need.

From raw cotton to woven product, everything is Nashawena work.
Its looms are supplied with yarns, cotton and silk, made in the mills.
Special yarns that may be required on occasion for unusual work or
for weaves requiring processed yarns are not drawn from an outside
market but from sources within the group, insuring Nashawena
standard.

The range of product, both in variety and quantity of fabrics, is
indicated by the fact that in their construction all the many grades
of very fine long staple cottons are used, while the silks represent

[ L39 ]

almost every known kind. They include the raw silks from Italy,
China and Japan, the processed silk such as the spun silks commonly
called Schappe, and the lustrous artificial silk which has become so
popular.

A characteristic feature of the Nashawena Mills is the degree to
which they have developed the business of carrying out and protecting
the ideas of converters. The novelty for which designers strive defies
cut-and-dried methods, and demands a distinct textile science. A
specialized organization is needed to solve such problems; and the
extraordinary number of new designs, involving practically infinite
variety in both textures and patterns, demands an establishment whose
plan is one of almost continual renewal by the adoption of new methods
and new machineries that are essential for keeping up to date.

Originality, which is the great value of new designs, means the un-
usual. The Nashawena Mills are operated to cope with the unusual.
Men and equipment are possessed of "mobility" — the versatility that
has enabled the mills to say to users of textiles:

"Tell us what you want, and we can make it"

It is many years since this declaration was made. Fashion and art
have put it abundantly to the test. The mills have always "made it."

Turbines in the Nashawena Mills Power House

[ 140]

Men who stake the chances of a whole season or more on special
designs, depend in unusual degree on the mill that does the work.

Their ideas must be protected absolutely.

The perfect execution of the designs must not be en-
dangered by equipment that fails in being up to date.

The quality of the fabric must be assured beforehand
by the known reputation and success of the mill.

Specializing as they do in this work, the Nashawena Mills can
produce for converters and others any beautiful fabric in cotton, in
silk, or in both, in any texture, in any design, and embodying almost
any idea. Nashawena looms range from 36 to 66 inches in width
and are of such variety that they can make every kind of plain,^
Jacquard or fancy fabric. Many of the looms installed here for
high-class novelties have no counterpart in the United States.

SILK AND COTTON FABRICS

The manufacture of silk and cotton mixed fabrics has developed
rapidly in this country because it has been found that materials of true
beauty and permanent value can be produced at lar less cost than

Slashing Machines, Nashawena Mills

[141]

the expensive silks. These fabrics are constructed not to take the place
of silk, but to supplement the range of silk fabrics and fill a demand
that has grown with the consuming public. The silk and cotton
fabric is in no sense an imitation or a substitute. It stands in a
class by itself, and is represented by a range of beautiful and useful
cloths that have distinct value.

The fact that a silk is used makes it essential that the whole fabric
shall grade up to this expensive component part. There is economy
in using cotton with silk only if the two materials so correspond in
quality, though of different substance, that they produce a rich fabric.
Economy is squandered the moment a cotton in such a textile lowers its
tone, for the purpose of cotton and silk mixture is to produce a hand-
some fabric at lessened cost, not a low-grade fabric whose chief merit
is cheapness.

NASHAWENA YARNS

"Good weaving begins in the yarn mill."

A weaver's skill and honesty may measurably remedy imperfections
in yarn, but his best efforts cannot transform inadequate yarns into
adequate fabrics.

In Fine Goods, beauty is a controlling business factor. If they can-
not be sold upon their appearance (which means that indefinable but
unmistakable something that comes only from quality), they are
"seconds" in effect if not in name.

A slight defect in a yard of fine yarn may be quite invisible, but
many thousand yards of yarn go into a yard of fabric. A defect many
thousand times repeated is not invisible.

The Nashawena Mills perform every function that enters into
producing woven fabric from the raw material. All the processes
of selection and grading of raw material, combing, spinning and
weaving are conducted; and the mills maintain one of the largest
spinning establishments in the country though not an ounce of their
yarns is made for sale.

Though the magnitude of the spinning operations makes possible
a highly economic production, the leading object of Nashawena
spinning is yarn that shall maintain the quality in woven fabrics
which makes the name "Nashawena" an accepted guaranty.

SILK

Because of the importance of silk mixture in cotton textiles, the
silk department of the Nashawena Mills was an organic part of

[142]

the establishment in its erection. All material enters it in the raw
state and the processes are for the one purpose of supplying the
weave-room. None of the silk department's product is for sale, and
thus there is eliminated every extraneous manipulation, such as
loading. Nashawena silk yarn manufacture looks only to develop and
retain the best natural qualities, in order to produce silk warp
and filling of the highest uniform character. From the opening and
oiling of the raw hanks through every succeeding process, all that
is done is dictated singly from the view of the textile fabric that is
to be produced, and for maintaining the same quality whether the
output be a single piece or a thousand.

WEAVING

It is a common saying that the modern power-loom can "weave
by itself." This is true. It is true that a whole roomful of looms
can "weave by themselves.'" But they cannot make good cloth
by themselves. As the products of the old hand-looms varied in
beauty and quality according to the varying abilities of the weavers,
so do the products of the modern machineries. Indeed, with the
speed and vast productiveness of modern weave-room equipment,
human skill and alertness have become more important than ever
they were in the older days.

The Nashawena weave-room has such an expanse that an observer
at one end can see the other end only vaguely with the naked eye. In
that space are more than 4000 looms. This imposing mass of power
equipment does the mechanical work — the drudgery. Unwearying,
it lays warp and weft far more accurately than the human hand could
do it. But there its ability ends. Machinery has no intelligence
and no conscience. It is neither honest nor dishonest. Honesty in
product, which means Quality, can be obtained solely through honest
human organization.

The manufacture of uniformly good textile fabric involves a literally
incessant war for results. A defective fabric cannot be cured. It
can only be patched. Prevention is the only cure in a cotton mill,
as in medicine, and prevention means unflagging human zeal.

In the trade there has always been more or less reference to
Nashawena "trade-secrets." It is true that the mills have such
secrets and that some are most useful. But the truly important
Nashawena secret is its system. Nashawena quality in product begins
with Nashawena quality in its workers.

[ 143 ]

Office anu Power Hoise, JN'ashawena Mills, New Beuford, Mass.

[ 144]

Exterior of Nashawe.na Mills

[149]

.sov. Nvs,.,«,svl....Mv l^...H.u>^ M,„, Ks..«s,.,Ht^.KUT^ vs.. su. ok uu.m

"^ """""^"'^ --vn,.H ...,,..,.„„, T-„„„^^,_ ^, ^,

BER OK THK LOOMS K.XCKEUS 4000

A I'viiTiM. \ iiu OF A Wkavk Koom 1^ THi; Nashawena Mills.

O.NE WKAVK ROOM IN THESK MILL!- HAS FLOOl! MACK

KiiAMi; Spinning Room, Nashawena Mills. Although the iNashawena Mills manufacture yarn

EXCLUSIVELY FOR THEIR OWN WEAVE BOOMS. THE YARN-SPINNING DEPARTMENTS
ARE THE MOST EXTENSIVE IN THE COUNTRY

[150]

SOME STAPLES
Besides the ever-increasing and therefore really limitless variety
of fancv fabrics, the Nashawena Mills are among leading producers
of those fabrics commonly called Staples, such as Venetians, voiles,
crepes, lawns and organdies.

VENETIANS

The value of this staple, whether all cotton or decorated with silk,
depends primarily on its being so constructed as to take a lustrous
finish. To achieve this characteristic is a problem that involves cor-
rect selection and preparation of raw material, yarn-spinning and
weaving together.

It is pre-eminently a textile that needs intelligent work by all con-
cerned in producing it in the grav. The effect that the finisher has
in mind can be obtained by him only if the mill works scientifically
toward that i?nd. Every kind of finish requires differences of method
in manufacture.

Correct manufacture in the gray is essential to make a product
that can be finished economically by the converter. The Venetian
in the gray that runs evenly throughout, facilitates and smoothes the
processes between the converter and the finishing plant, which means
lessened cost, and gives the customer a fabric that is distinguished by
a luster that has not only brilliancy but body.

The Nashawena Mills today market a product that admittedly can
accept jealous scrutiny in comparison with the famous Venetians which
have been imported for so many years. The mill Venetians run in
two classes — single and two-ply. They are made in both plain and
Jacquard weaves, and in limited quantities with decorations oi silk.

VOILES

Nashawena voiles have a reputation so tanuliar to Jju)ers of this
fabric that it seems merely necessary to say that there have been
many years of concentration on producing a voile yarn that shall be
exactly right, and that the mills maintain workers whose tenure of
employment has made them expert for this ])articular product.

The good reputation of Nashawena single yarn voiles is not only
because of quality alone, but because the quality has the commercial
value of being of uniform standard throughout the whole great quantity
that is produced annually. Skill in the manufacture of single yarn
voiles in this countrv has developed remarkably. According to one
of the best informed manufacturers in Europe, the single yarn voiles
|)roduced in the Nasliaweiia Mills have no superior in the world.

[ 151 ]

Drawinc-in Machine, Nashawena Mills

Drawing Warf in. Nashawena Mills

[152]

CREPES

The value of this fabric is in the "crinkle*' which it assumes in
finishing. Unfortunately for the converter, he cannot very well tell
beforehand, when he buys the goods in the gray, whether they have
been woven correctly, with yarns of the right resiliency and twist.
He cannot find out till he has put the fabric through his expensive
process.

No amount of skill or expenditure of effort and money can make
a good crepe out of a gray fabric that does not contain the proper
yarns. Therefore the purchaser of crepe in the gray has to depend
on the mill, and any looseness or lack of skill and equipment there is
likely to be disastrous, lor to make a good crepe it is necessary to
handle on the looms manv threads of sharply varying character of
twist, laid in accordance with formulas which often are complex.
Crepe production in the Nashawena Mills is specialized and many
of the methods and equipments are exclusive.

POPLINS

Nashawena poplins, both two-ply and single, have become stand-
ards in the trade for the better grades of dress and shirting fabrics.
Owing to the large number of twisters, two-ply poplins are produced
in very large quantities. They are noted for the superiority of their
quality and the uniformity of their manufacture.

LAWNS AND ORGANDIES

The mills were planned to make a range of high grade lawns and
organdies as a specialized part of their product. Their spinning equip-
ment is such that they can supply the weave rooms with cotton yarns,
both frame and mule spun, ranging from 60s to 140s in number.

[ 153 ]

Silk Qi illkiis. Nashawena Mill-

Some Silk-throwing Frames, Nashawena Mills

[154]

MECHANICAL FABRICS

This modern term is applied to fabrics of peculiar characteristics,
such as unusual strength with extreme thinness, non-stretching pro-
perty, resistance to tearing strain and abrasion, etc. Great necessity
for such material was created by the war, particularly in the form
of cotton cloth for aeroj)lanes, balloons and gas masks. Quality was
a matter of life and death, and the fabrics had to pass tests to which
no textiles ever had been subjected.

The Nashawena Mills were perhaps the largest producers for the
government. According to government experts, the quality of their
product was unsurpassed by any that was manufactured in that time
of strenuous effort. To assist in this result, William Whitman
Company, Inc., established a central testing laboratory with every
known modern apparatus for both test and research.

It has been retained as a regular part of the system which serves
all the mills, and it remains especially valuable for the production
of mechanical fabrics whose use is developing greatly in normal in-
dustry. Among these are many cloths which are essentially mechanical
fabrics although not so called hitherto. Corset cloths, for example,
require tensile strength as a primary element, and the standard of

A Section of the Great Silk-warp Room, Nashawena Mills. The silk department ok this

COTTON mill would REPRESENT A RESPECTABLE SILK MILL IF IT STOOD ALONE

[155]

Warp and Tvinc-in, Nashawena Mills

[156]

One of the Silk Ri

I III \ \^H \\\ IN \ Mil I.'

In TUBES

Strength is increasing continually. Shoe cloths which take the place
of leather in certain kinds of shoes, present problems that become
more exacting steadily as the demands increase for wearing quality,
strength and other properties that are difficult to attain. Nashawena
Mills corset and shoe cloths, which always have had high reputation,
have the advantage of the discoveries and equipments that were
created by the intense efforts during the war.

DESIGNS

As the Nashawena Mills specialize in executing designs and ideas,
the designing department is. naturally, maintained as an important
part of the establishment, and its staff is competent to bring out in
weft and warp the beauty for which the designer strives.

A controlling part of the system in this department, as in the whole
mill, is the protection of all ideas. Since costly sales campaigns so
often depend on the exclusive novelty or distinction of a certain
design or construction, the mills have developed this particular point
to a degree where the safeguard is absolute.

[ 157 ]

.Mlles at .Najhawe.na .Mills

[158]

NASHAWENA MILLS

Fine Cotton and Cotton and Silk Fabrics in the Gray. All
Fabrics are made of Fine All-combed Cotton Yarns, or
All-combed Cotton Yarns in Combination with Silk.

Voiles for dress waist embroidery and curtain fabrics. Made
in varying widths, weights and constructions, of single or ply
yarns, with plain or fancy weaves, or with silk or colored yarn
decorations.

Poplins for dress and shirting fabrics. Made in varying
widths, weights and constructions, both single and ply yarns
and of differing ply yarns in plain or Jacquard weaves, or with
silk or colored varn decorations.

Venetians and Sateens for linings. Made in varying widths,
weights and constructions, both ply and single yarns, in plain
or Jacquard weaves, or with silk or colored yarn decorations.

Lawns and Organdies for dress and waist fabrics. Made in
varying widths, weights and constructions.

Plain Canton and Tussah Filled Fabrics. Made in varying
widths, weights and constructions, in plain dobby and Jacquard
weaves, with or without silk or colored yarn decorations.

Marquisettes for dress and curtain fabrics. Made in varying
widths, weights and constructions, in plain or fancy weaves, or
with fancv decorations.

Crepes for kimonos and dress fabrics. Made in varying
widths, weights and constructions, in plain or fancy weaves,
with silk or with silk or colored yarn decorations.

Silk Warp Fabrics for dress fabrics, made in varying widths,
weights and constructions, in plain, fancy or Jacquard weaves.

The above fabrics are of more or less staple character and are
used as the ground-work for many fancy styles made on special
contract and confined to customers.

Special contract work is an important feature.

[159]

Katama Mills

Lawrence, Mass.

Q^'

M
-e^^

Winding Machines in the Katama Mills. One of the many steps in preparing yarns for the

BIG looms

[162]

'M m

KATAMA MILLS

Lawrence, Mass.
Capital Stock $2,000,000

OFFICERS

President: Hendricks H. Whitman Boston, Mass.

Treasurer: Walter C. Ballard Boston, Mass.

Clerk: Frank C. Chamberlain Boston, Mass.

Agent: John W. Alexander Lawrence, Mass.

DIRECTORS

Walter C. Ballard Boston, Mass.

Arthur T. Bradlee Boston, Mass.

Louis H. Fitch Boston, Mass.

Franklin W. Hobbs Boston, Mass.

George H. Waterman Boston, Mass.

Hendricks H. Whitman Boston, Mass.

Malcolm D. Whitman New York, N. Y.

William Whitman, Jr Boston, Mass.

William Whitman Boston, Mass.

SELLING AGENTS

7liJ 1?^

The Katama Mills

Katama Mills. Some of the Twisting Machines. Overhead trolleys convey all heavy
material through the various departments of the plant

[166]

KATAMA MILLS

LAWRENCE, MASS.

The Katania Mills were created and are equipped to produce heavy
cotton lahrics for purposes demanding extreme strength, durability
and ''massiveness" of construction.

The concentration of regular effort is on Tire Fabric. The
dominant principle of organization is readiness to meet the swiftly
increasing challenges of motorized transportation.

The mills make Tire Fabric in all serviceable kinds and qualities,
from Egyptian and American Cottons, both Combed and Carded, in
all standard weights, widths and lengths, and are prepared to make
any heavy fabric of any special construction.

TIRE FABRICS

Practically every tire made in the United States is sold on one
single argument — durability. This competition on the basis of
Quality (the one form of competition that can never be carried too
far, because it benefits the world increasingly) makes demands on
the tire-producing technician that would have been considered ab-
surd a few years ago; yet almost each day sees a further demand as
one sweeping guaranty follows another.

To make good these guarantees, the tire-maker depends helplessly
on the most tenuous and tender of things — the bloom of the cotton-
plant. To fulfill the manufacturers pledge of mileage and other
service for his tire, the cotton expert must so manipulate his material
that from a fluff nearly as fragile as vapor there shall grow a fabric
competent to defy tearing, breaking and abrading violences actually
beyond many to which iron was subjected fifty years ago.

Extraordinary as is the powerful fabric produced under this
modern stress, its power can be obtained in only one way — by ex-
cellence in spinning the same delicate cotton yarn as that which goes
into the most gossamer material. If that original yarn be not as
perfect as good raw material and skilled manipulation can make it,
the defect will run through the hundreds of processes that lead to the
finished fabric.

Therefore the successful production of tire yarn demands a close
combination of two qualities — long experience in regular yarn
making, and up-to-date knowledge and methods that are smartly
abreast of the modern development.

[167]

Warp Compressing Machines, also known as BEAMtii^. I i

HEWt K(HIM

III HI (.K WAKl'S FUR THE

View of a Weave Room, looking North, in the Katama Mills. Note the trolley system for
handling the heavy rolls of cloth

The Katama establishment is so situated that it commands both
these essentials. Itself wholly modern in construction and equipment
for manipulation and weaving yarn into tire fabric, its membership in
the Whitman Company group of mills gives it a supply of the best
of tire yarns.

Bulk and weight being a formidable problem in manufacturing
Tire Fabric, the Katama Mills are so arranged with overhead trolley
systems that all handling is done by power, and the material passes
through all its processes with complete directness from the original
yarn to the delivery of the finished fabric on the shipping platform
whence it passes immediately into the freight trains. The specially
built automatic looms in many important respects differ from those
used by any other mill in this field, and like all the Katama
machineries are driven by individual motors. Their number is such
as to make this mill probably the largest in the country to operate
automatic looms on this class of work.

The time economies thus enjoyed by this modern mill are utilized
for time-expenditures on what is the vital feature of a tire-fabric
mill — supervision and continual test. The carefulness of tire yarn
manufacture and inspection in the Whitman group of mills, has been
described. Notwithstanding this, a Katama inspection goes over the
same ground before a yarn starts on its course. Following this,
the material is under unremitting expert watch through all the
processes of twisting, beaming, weaving, etc., with the testing-
departments checking all results. The finished product ready to
ship must pass three final and wholly separate inspections, each
covering the entire fabric, a final one being conducted during a slow
passage of the cloth through the calendering rolls.

In addition, the central laboratory in No. 78 Chauncy Street,
Boston, which serves all the mills in the Whitman group, reinforces
the Katama system with its own independent tests of product and
with laboratory exploration of ideas for advanced work.

[169]

KATAMA MILLS

TIRE FABRICS

BUILDER FABRIC

Carded American Cotlon Comlied American Colton

Carded Egyptian Cotton (iombed Egyptian ( iolldii

Comjjed S A K Colton

CHAFING FABRIC

Carded American Cotton C(jml(pd Ainericiin Colton

LENO BREAKER

Carded American Colloii

CORD FABRIC
("ond)cd American ('otion C(jml)cd Egyi>tian Cotlon

In Widths 48, 54, 60, 72, 84 and <«l inciics

In Rolls 125, 250 and 500 yards

In volume large enough to warrant, specialties will he made

[170]

Some of the Tkstinc Ai'Paiiati s in the Centhai. Labor \Toitv in the William Whitman Builulni,,
78 Chauncv Street, Boston

The Central Testinu Laboratory in the Boston Building ok Wji.liam \\nn\T\N ('ompany.
78 Chauncy Street, Boston

Mm -, (.AMI., I •. ('ALLS, S. C.

[172 1

X?;.V

=^=

^^.

CALHOUN MILLS

(Iamioi n I'ai.i.s, Soirii <!\iioi,ina

( aiiil.il S|i,(k

$6()0,0()()

OliiCKItS

I'lrsulral iiiiil 'I' irusurcr : JamKS !'. </OS.Si;i T, (^uIIk

uii I'ailh,

s. c.

Si'xri'.lary ami Assisliinl 'frriiMirrr: K. M. I.ANDI-.li,

Callioiiii

FallH, S. C.

Dliil.CIOliS

W. I-'. Cox Callioiir, 1

.iIInS. C.

f;i.oii(,i. A. Dkai'kii Il..|,<il

il<% Mass.

Jami.s 1'. (iossi- ri (Jallioiiii 1

;.IU,S,C.

!•;. M. I.AM.KIi G.llloNM 1

..II-,S.C.

alU,.S. C.
lie, lVla»».

K. Kknt SwrKT Whilifihv

Wll.l.lAVI WllllMAN I5<).S

on, Ma»«.

SKM.ING Af;KN'!'.S

Wll.l.lAM WllllMAN rriMl'ANY, In<:. Ofiiciri : 7/i Cham

<:y Si km;!.

l»<)h(r)fi, MaHS. ; 20 Madison Avrttiijr;, \i-v>' York, .\

Y.; .W)

Chcslriul Slrircl, l'hi!ailel|ihia, I'a.; ConlitKfnlal i

nd Com-

rncrcial li.irjk i'.iiiMirif.', Cliifai/o, III.

•9^i

>
/

— 1

CALHOUN MILLS

CALHOUN FALLS, S. C.

'I'he Ca]li(nin MilU. ol Callioun I'all.-, S. C, was incorporated in
1907, to manufacture staple carried print cloth yarn lahrics.

The mill is situated in a splendid manufacturing district where
there is an ample supply of good grade average strict middling upper
Carolina cotton. The machinery is modern and up-to-date in every
respect. The mill is equipped with Draper Automatic Looms and
every other manulacturing facility used for the manufacture of staple
carded fabrics. .No effort has been spared to maintain healthful
conditions not only in the niill hut in the homes which the corporation
has provided for its employees. In addition, the management has
estafjlished every means to enable the employees to obtain econo-
mically all their clothing, food and other household supplies that
they may require, and has made such improvements in the nature
of welfare work as would tend to make the community an ideal one
for the employees.

The mills were planned especially to spin their own yarn from
cotton grown in the surrounding district and to weave this yarn into
plain staple fabrics. It has been the aim of the management to
utilize only the best grades of cotton of the character required and
to specialize on one or two constructions of fabrics with the idea of
perfecting their manufacture. The result has been that from the
time the mill was incorporated it has produced fabrics of unusual
merit. The gray fabrics of the Calhoun Mills are of as high a standard
of quality as those manufactured anywhere in the United States.
The character of the cotton, the quality of the yarn, the careful
weaving, and the conditions under which the employees work, have
enabled the mill to produce cloths that are not only of the best
quality and uniform in quality but of unusual strength and cleanness.
In fact, for certain purposes where strength and careful sizing are
necessary elements, these fabrics are preferred.

The gray fabrics profluced by the Calhoun Mills have won an
enviable reputation in the trade and command a preference in the
market. They are sold to the converters who bleach, dye or print
them into many different cloths. The finished fabrics in their dif-
ferent forms are user! in almost ever\ kind ol cotton article.

[174]

(jori'ON s'I'()ka(;k

Belleville Wurclioiisc dotn/ia/iy
Nkw I»i;i)i (ti!i), Mass.

\i> iiiccl llicir own needs and also lor <,'ener;d nse lor llie eollon
indu.slry, iIh; Manornel Mills, INasliawena Mills, iNon(|iiill Spinnin^i
Company and William Wliilman, in 1916- 101 7 lormerj llie I'xileville
Warehouse (Company wliieli erecl(;d a (ire-prool. Hal slah, nitdoKcd
concrete 8-slory huilding willi 750,000 s(|uare jeel sloraj^e area lor
receiving, storing and delivering cotton and other mereliamhse. It
enables mills to hiiy and keep on hanri su[)plies ol cotton lor hihire
requirements and thus assure themselves of their raw material in limes
of uncertain shipping and delivery conditions.

Negotiable warehouse n;ceipts will Ix; lurnislied on which loans
may he ohtain(;d under lavorahle terms, thus rerlucing the carrying
charges to a minimum.

A railroad siding, with a cafiacity ol ihirly-onc cars, runs the en-
tire length ol llic liiiildin;:. Adjaei'ril lo llii- aiding is a covered
platform, ciglil led wide lor loailing ami iinloaditig. KIcvalors and

iJKi.i.i.vir.i.i. Waiii.>i<>(,->i.

Lcn(!tli 'XA feci; wiHtli IW feel; utoraKi- an-u 750,000 (iiiiarif d-d; (li.or loail I.',0 pnutiilH per
squari; foot; HJflinK capacily -ii card; H clevalom; 4 wliip tioiHln; 4 «piral clnilirii; 8 ilairwayn.

The cormlrufliori (:onlain» r.O.(KX) l<arr.-U of fernent. I.VJO loim of kK-.I. I.OOII.OOO l.oar.l f.-.| „l
lumlicr.

[J73J

whip hoists handle the merchandise quickly. Carloads of goods billed
"Care of the Belleville Warehouse Company"' arrive at the siding
free of switching charges. Carloads of cotton arriving by boat at
the New England Steamship Company's wharf at New Berlford may
be shipped to the Belleville Warehouse at low cost.

The warehouse is equipped with sprinklers and divided into units
on each floor by fireproof partitions. It is divided on each iloor into
sixteen sections each served by elevators and whip hoists for receiving
cotton and by spiral chutes for delivery. The sections are numbered
and the bays of each section are lettered. Consignments are kept
together and received, stored, weighed, tagged and recorded under
the best warehousing methods, keeping close record of every bale.

■ ■

[176 J

X HE object of this book has been to state the character
that dictates the quality standards of the WilUam Whitman
Company, Inc., organization and to indicate in a broad way
how the standards are realized in finished product. It is
impossible in any work of this kind to give a detailed descrip-
tion of the goods the various mills regularly manufacture
or those other goods that they could, if necessary, rapidly
turn their machinery to in times of stress or national emer-
gency such as the late war, at which time, through a
correlation of the various plants and the numerous textile
connections of the Company they were able and did offer
to the Government, rapidly and in large volume, textile
goods covering nearly all the national requirements. The
mills, furnished as they are with every known form of useful
equipment installed for large production, togetlier with the
correlated business organization of the Company and its
mills, place the Companv in an unusually strong j)osition to
meet individual or national needs either for the standard
goods which they ordinarily make or for special goods to
meet emergencies or special requirements of the trade.

■%i-

[177]

BARTLI'.TT
( )RR PRK.SS I'

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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